Thread: Need some advice re D2TD5 alternator removal

from memory, when I did a mates TD5 alternator,

I removed the fan (RH Thread ie: normal thread, not like the Tdi). Put the hub spanner on and give it a short sharp tap.

I removed some bracket in front of the bolt, I think it was a flat piece going from the block.

Mate bought a Torx bit set from Bunnings with long & short Torx pieces. They weren't badly priced. Actually he bought two sets and gave me one as a gift for helping

Never having done the job before, and discovering what was in the way as we went, I think it took under two hours to do the complete change over. Just systematically remove what needs to come out of the way.

Get the right tools, or you'll be for ever there butchering your knuckles (and the bolts).

Yep, the tensioner is only one bolt IIRC. 3hrs! It took myself and Walker a lot longer than that, but you get that while doing repairs outside a dusty pub in a hat town! We also did it with the fan in place.

OK moving the tensioner will make it much easier.
I cannot stand the idea of getting mine repaired and possibly failing again so I have bought a new one from Gary at CLR along with a new idler pulley.

BUT the fan is still a problem. The previous mechanic must have loctited it and the three pulley bolts, as I made up a pulley bolt tool then couldn't get the 10MM bolts undone. I will have to find my non offset ring spanner as I was afraid of rounding with an open ender.
In any case my big square screwdriver was flexing about an inch, so I was putting some pressure on it when not bashing it.
Regards Philip A

can you make up a bar with holes drilled to hold over the 10mm bolts so that does not turn, then give the fan spanner a whack towards the drivers side of the car?.

I have found that a TD5 head bolt or similar cut down and used as a punch on the nut with a 2lb hammer is excellent. One whack and the nut/fan spins off. Nut not marked

Cheers

RF

I am battling on with NO help from RAVE. Rave shows the tensioner as having a LH thread on the mount bolt. Guess what . It is a normal RH thread. Must be a typo supposed to be referring to the bolt on the pulley.
ARRRGH. At least I have got one bolt undone in the last 2 hours.

4.


Remove bolt (LH thread) and remove auxiliary

drive belt tensioner.

Re Viscous -I have made up the tool and have it on one bolt on the pulley at present. You need a Japanese contortionist with childs hands to get the bolts back in. Even with the pulley well jammed, and a 5lb lump hammer there is currently no movement at the station, just a 36MM big spanner flying around the place.

I opened up a tow ball spanner slightly to fit and still couldn't get the thing off! I note bundalene uses a proper spanner and had little problems.

My spanners are OK, its just that the thing is so tight . I just bent the pulley holding tool and will have to make a new one .

I just cut off the oil drain of the vacuum pump as the clips are those bloody german squeeze together things , and there is no room to get a screwdriver in to open them.

Any one know how to get the multiplug out of the back of the alternator? Do you squeeze the wings or spread them?

At least I found the oil leak!!!! The camshaft cap was so loose it rattled around so I glued her in with some high temp gold silicone gasket.

I have to say I would like to get the Land Rover "engineers" to work on these things as punishment for their stupid design.
Its bloody difficult to work at the moment as it is p I mean raining heavily and blowing a gale, and i have to have the garage door open to get to the front of the car.
Regards Philip A