Thread: Etching primer

Originally Posted by uninformed

Ive got all "diggers" brand. W&G remover, says on the side being 100% hydrocarbon. Acteone just says 100% acetone haha. BTW, when i first started to rub the painted shock with acetone, I thought "oh no, wrong stuff" switched rags and started on another spot with W&G remover...same result. Paint simply had not cured properly IMO

While painting all that in one day may work for you, I have a couple of questions. How long are you letting the etch dry? It states on my can to coat, second coat within 5 mins, additional coats within the hr or after 24 hrs. Complelely dry in 24hrs. And how many eypoxy coats are you applying over that in one day.

Humidity here plays a major role.

here is the tech stuff from Diggers. They list, among others, the W&G remover and Acetone under their "solvents" banner

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...tone_Sep11.pdf

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...over_Sep11.pdf

and here is their enamel thinners, which has its same main ingredient as the W&G.....isnt thinners for thining out paint AND clean up/removal....

http://www.recochem.com.au/files/dow...ners_Sep11.pdf

I'm using one coat of etch primer on bare metal, then after a couple of hours (sometimes the next day) a very light sand to take off any high spots then 2 coats of epoxy enamel. I let the first coat touch dry and then apply the second, slightly heavier coat.
I usually degrease with mineral turpentine or metho (ethanol). I don't degrease between etch & epoxy, I just keep my fingers off the surface when sanding.
Some parts like leaf springs I treat with phosphoric acid (etches & holds back any rust) then brush paint with epoxy enamel, usually 2 coats to ensure complete coverage.

Post #146 shows a shock absorber painted in a day then left for a couple of days before installing. Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

Thinning & degreasing can be done using the same product but.....some paints can be removed using thinners once they are dry. They dry by the solvent evaporating, apply more solvent and the paint becomes liquid again. I used a lot of cellulose paint back in the UK, this can be removed years down the track with cellulose thinners.

For oil based paints in the UK you could get 'White Spirit' or 'Pure Gum Turpentine'. White spirit was cheaper and it was used for thinning paints and degreasing. When I came to Australia all I could find was 'Pure Gum Turpentine' or 'Mineral Turpentine', I'm not sure whether mineral turpentine & white spirit are the same.

What about 'Prep Wash' for cleaning prior to painting.
Just checked a Dulux MSDS and it's white spirit, petroleum & toluene.

Colin

this is what i use





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I dont know much, but I do know acetone and w&g remover are very different. Pretty sure Acetone is not a hydrocarbon.

According to a Glasurit paint tech I spoke to top coats should not be appiled directly to Etch primer. A standard primer is used to isolate etch primer acid...

I think you will find alot of similarites between white spirits, shellite, W&G remover, prep wash. White spirits is definitley available here, diggers make it.

I dont think acetone the same, but again, the small amount I applied IMMEDIATLY removed paint. So did the W&G remover.....

I just did a test patch of W&G on the re try of etch/prime on the shocks. All good and no sign of it coming off.

One thing I try and do, and it can be hard, is to buy the same brand if using more than one part, ie primer and top coat. Hopefuly they will be compatable that way. (read back of tin/can)

I think there are alot of generlisations and wives tails when it comes to paint/painting. As much as we think they are all pretty much the same, either acrylic or enamel, there can be subtial differences in chemical that can make or break the quality of the job.

Just looked at my spray cans and acetone is 10-30% the propelant in the engine enamal, while Metho 10-20% in the etch primer.........


confusing much hahaha.