Hope this answers your Q
on a defender:
with a 33mm offest on the 7" rim a 255 tyre will rub on the radius arm (front) on full lock unless the grub screws are wound out. the 255's rub on the rear spring hanger at full articulation.
with 10mm offset on the 7" rim you retain full lock to lock and no rear rubbing all the while the side wall sitting inline with the upper edge of the flare.
with 0mm offset the the side wall sits proud of the flare with the tread inside the upper edge of the flare (thus legal).
With the last two configurations you get mud/water spray off the tyre on the panels behind the wheels. But you look tough and improve our track while retaining steering and no rubbing.
I powder coated mine.. To as a few years ago now. I'm sure they won't last for ever however they look as good as the day I got them.
There are good powder coats and not so good ones. These ones had a coat of zinc then two of satin black. Looks Greg and very chip resistant.
Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)
As far as bang for your buck goes, powder coating is your best option. Done properly, stripped, blasted, zinc primed and powder coated they should last for ages.
Cracking normally occurs if the cure hasn't been completed properly.
This isn't the original RRC rostyle steels, I have a set of those also. This is a disco style steel wheel found as a spare in later RRC's.
Whether it was the factory cheaping out on a $100k+ vehicle or dealers robbing them is another question. The later RRC wheel nuts have a large chamfer so they can be used with steel wheels. The early RRC alloy wheel nuts have a small chamfer and don't work with steels.
Look like these, but I still haven't pulled it out to check for numbers:
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