Thread: TD5 Expansion tank cap leakage after hard run?

It does sound consistent with a classic TD5 Head Gasket.
They generally don't actually blow but pressurize the cooling system when worked hard.
From what I have been told most Td5s are driven in for their Head Gasket Change.
Could also be Viscous Fan Hub, or crook cap.

Or, could have just been overfilled?

Do what I did with my 99 Deefer with exactly the same issue --which I found after purchasing it.
Replace expansion tank cap --Still doing it??
Replace expansion tank -- " " " (thought it was hairline cracked)
Replace Viscous fan --- " " "
Replace water pump --- " " "
Go to bank & extend line of credit
Replace cylinder head with an AMV head from Turner engineering.

Mine was increasing the oil level which indicated a porous fuel gallery & I figured I could waste too much $$ on new cyl head bolts, gasket plus time etc only to still have the oil dilution issue. It may be any of the above.
Good luck..

Hi DeeJay,

I read some of your post's regarding the issues you had with your TD5 110. I'm feeling your pain, I think.

Could I ask what the cost was for the head etc from AMV?

Hi. Been here too.... Does it use water? Does it airlock on the top hose? (There should be a plastic bleeder on the top hose that runs over the AC pump). I bought a 99 TD5 tray from a dealer in Brisbane, and he'd kindly drilled a tiny hole in the back of the header tank to disguise the pressurising issue.... We discovered this hole about 100km south of Brizzy Adelaide bound!!
In my opinion, (if you are ok with the spanners) just do the job.. You will need:- Genuine or OEM head gasket, Head Bolts, Steel Dowels x2, Fuel inlet gasket (and tiny filter if yours is missing), Injector Loom, Injector O Ring kit and a Rocker Cover Gasket. Remove the head and strip it. Make sure you note which fuel line came from which hole... mine were back to front making it a pig to bleed! Also make sure that you keep the hydraulic followers in order and upright.. the way they came out! Get the head tested and skimmed (some say you can't skim them... You can. There is enough hardened face to take a skim as long as it has not been done before). They will tell you if it has gone soft, has any leaks etc.. Should cost under $500.. (I paid $380). While the head is away, take the time to clean the block face and bolt holes. Your inlet manifold will be filthy too!!
When you get the head back spend a good while making sure all the swarf has been removed from the 'fuel gallery's' in the head as Injectors don't like it....(don't ask!). If you are planning to 'tweak' the engine at any time in the future, now is also a good time to upgrade the exhaust studs as they don't handle the increase in heat etc with chipping. It can be done fairly cheaply if you do the bulk of the work. Good luck.

Agree with Sitec, I'm a bloody rookie spanner spinner and when my goes I'll DIY it
I had a few issues with losing coolant, but that only happened when:
a) I didn't do the cap up properly (It's buggered anyway but I managed to MacGyver it so it will do until I replace it)
b) As Will says, if you overfill them they push a bit out until they find a happy point, my mechanic normally only half fills the tank.

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Agree with Sitec, I'm a bloody rookie spanner spinner and when my goes I'll DIY it
I had a few issues with losing coolant, but that only happened when:
a) I didn't do the cap up properly (It's buggered anyway but I managed to MacGyver it so it will do until I replace it)
b) As Will says, if you overfill them they push a bit out until they find a happy point, my mechanic normally only half fills the tank.

I agree,don't do anything until you have checked the coolant level COLD.It should be only up to the level mark,which equates to the join in the centre of the expansion tank.I use a mirror to check this,as it is difficult to see.I have found if you fill past this mark,even by as little as a cm,then they tend to blow out the cap,until the level is back down.

dont forget theres about 70% of td5 defenders settle the coolant level upto an inch below the normal cold level

I always use the coke bottle fill method on the Td(any) landrovers and havent had a problem with getting them to bleed out properly but still wind up with some vehicles that just wont allow the normal cold level to be correct instead settling somewhere below the level.