Thread: This is not how my D2 V8 should sound!

Drop and strip it they said! Feedback came from the engineering company who the head went to yesterday, they say nothing is wrong with it. So after a month and a half, the decision has been made to drop it and strip it, look at everything including the flex plate.

A reconditioned engine or used engine was decided against as it makes sense to keep it all together and find the problem then solve it. Means I am without a vehicle for a little longer, but hey, lets make something good out of something bad.

Upside is, I get to learn more about my engine, and know that it will be 110% safe and sorted when all is done. However, as things progress on the drop and strip, I will post updates and images for all who need some help in the future.

Last year, I was so pleased to type all this awesome news here about how the guys had sorted my problem out, and how I had learnt so much. Only to have the same problem all over again, well it was never repaired.

I would like to thank the four letter worded idiot mechanic who I actually trusted from last year for his incompetence and stupidity as well as BS advice and comment. After receiving the vehicle back from him, the noise was still there. I took it straight back to the dealer I purchased the car from insisting he take it to a recommended specialist for Land Rovers or my money back, I wanted nothing to do with the other idiot. But a blessing in disguise I was introduced to Mark from Adventure Rovers.

To keep this short, the list below is what has been done. I will explain after.

1. Both heads re-done (Due to the Oil Pump, rockers and rocker shafts burnt and worn, originally suspected to be the problem)
2. New CAM Shaft (Old one worn so badly due to Lack of Oil, was eventually the biggest problem)
3. New bushes for CAM shaft. (Has to be done when installing a new CAM Shaft
4. Conrods engineered due to one or two becoming oval (Wear and Tear due damaged big end bearings)
5. Crank is currently been cut and polished (Wear and Tear due damaged big end and Main bearings)
6. New Oil Pump Casing / housing (Due to Additive being added to Oil, the Pressure release valve has weekend, and therefore cannot regulate oil pressure correctly, it is positioned in this housing)

He has been thorough, working on my vehicles engine from top to bottom, and diagnosing the noise and issues as he proceeded. The main noise was coming from the CAM shaft been so worn, the lobes were different sizes throughout. The biggest noise was coming from the Big End Bearings as the conrods were damaged from bad big end bearings resulting in a badly scored and scuffed crank shaft.

When replacing the items with new ones, the noise would subside, but because of wear, it would return very quickly, and because the Oil Pressure was not good enough to get the right amount of Oil through at higher Revs so ultimately everything was been damaged more. To add insult to injury, this could have all been avoided when the last primate took the engine out to "repair" it.

It is now very obvious that the problem had been around for some time, and the wear to extensive to resolve, so someone (Could be the previous owner) added an additive to the oil, therefore making it thicker. This may have sorted the noise out (enabling a sale), but improved the damage been done by lack of oil getting round the engine. Further to this, it also strained the Oil pressure release valve (Which is not mentioned anywhere in the manuals I have downloaded or purchased) in the housing that covers the Oil pump etc... The noise magically appeared after the service, because all the old oil was drained, replaced with new oil and as time passed, the additive worked itself out of the engine parts revealing all the wonderful problems.

Ultimately a proper oil pressure gauge is installed so I can check this all the time, the oil pressure light only illuminates when there is less than .5 or .6 bar of oil pressure in the system, I know what my pressure should be at all times at different revs in the future.