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Thread: Cams, V8, 4.0 vs 4.6

  1. #11
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    Holden lifters fit, but they have different bleed down rates and required pre-loads.
    The original Delphi ones can run a preload of up to 4mm if you need to deck heads etc.

    The oe cams had red on the end for the 4.6 and orange for the 4.0. With different lift and timing.


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  2. #12
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    Cheaper is relative when it's vs genuine prices. The cam for instance is 40 pounds from the UK, here I'm expecting $200- +, but don't want to delve into the vagaries of aftermarket stuff either, it's a minefield and I'm used to working in extremes when it comes to cams, I wouldn't know where to start on something the doesn't rev past 4 numbers and lift less than 2.

    I was hoping the lifters were an option due to numbers, red motors last forever, and I've never seen one have the lifter issues that rover V8's do, cracking/pitting/wearing etc. Same goes for the cams, plenty of lube will be used that day.
    If that's the case, then just go to Turner Engineering - Remanufacturer of Land Rover Engines and supplier of Land Rover engine parts. They've been selling the H180 Kent cam for a while, as well as the same parts they use in their rebuilds, and given their solid reputation, I rather doubt they use cheap parts. I just bought everything from there and got it over with. (I still have to run the engine, though!) And freight is very quick from them.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    Cheaper is relative when it's vs genuine prices. The cam for instance is 40 pounds from the UK, here I'm expecting $200- +, but don't want to delve into the vagaries of aftermarket stuff either, it's a minefield and I'm used to working in extremes when it comes to cams, I wouldn't know where to start on something the doesn't rev past 4 numbers and lift less than 2.

    I was hoping the lifters were an option due to numbers, red motors last forever, and I've never seen one have the lifter issues that rover V8's do, cracking/pitting/wearing etc. Same goes for the cams, plenty of lube will be used that day.

    G`day ,

    a while since i`ve done any but a local cam shop should be able to give you factory figures on a cam they grind , generally much cheaper that off the shelf .

    I have a preferance for the holden type lifters you ask about .

    For price and quality i`ve had no problems fitting to RV8s though have had one loose a circlip in a holden and bend a pushrod and valve .

    The Leyland 4.4 V8 uses the Holden type and being based on the Rover/Buick 3.5 V8 , think that`s how the use of came about though the Leyland does use the Holden rockers Etc and Repco probably figures in somewhere .


    When refered to as Holden type , better would probably be GM type they also have been used in many Chevs , Buicks , Pontiacs ETC .

    Not that it matters but the pump up is higher than the Rover type .

    One thing with using them , well two and the reason most people ridicule them when used in a Rover , in my opinion is that the person putting it together needs to know what they are looking at and measurement that would normally be done are , so`s things match all the way through , not just get the bits put it together and she`ll be right , admittedly that does also work sometimes as reading this site tells .

    In your other post i`d also suggest the radiator , when you have it apart you`ll see if the heat and blocked radiator are related , the hose would possibly have been the pressure of a head gasket .

    These engines often don`t tell like others , coolant and oil or reverse mix is not the norm like others nor is fluid from the exhaust , it can happen but not the norm .

    I would also suggest pressure testing the block , being what it is , even if you don`t find any nice clean piston tops .

  4. #14
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    As I need to buy lifters for my 4.6 I have been following the last few posts with interest.

    I was just going to buy Rover lifters but an now a bit confused.

    What is wrong with the Rover lifters?

    What makes the GM ones better?

    Do the GM ones go in without modification?

    What GMs do I get if I went that route?

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
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  5. #15
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    G`day Garry ,

    like i say i have a preference ,

    there`s nothing wrong with the Rover type .

    If you got an inference the GM type are better it wasn`t meant .

    No problem fitting if done as it should be , in my experence .

    I don`t have a problem with the pushrod oil hole because i consider if it leaks/dribbles the cam is better lubed .

    Last lifters a bought were from an engine rebuilder , i didn`t discuss what they were to be used in and it was at least 3 yrs ago .

    I bought 3 sets or so , don`t remember if 48 or 64 for a V8 which was a similar price to 1 set for a Rover .

    They came loose not in packages .

    I don`t have a problem with using generic stuff , i have used valves etc as long as the dimentions are right i`m happy , i have timing sets that are not rover which were much less expensive to buy than factory . I have rings sets ACL etc for other makes that will fit earlier thick ring rover pistons .

    This is all personal use stuff that i buy ( well used to , not so much now ) if i see because i`ll use it at some time but i also have books and cats etc that i can refer to .
    I do check brands sortof

  6. #16
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    Thanks for that - good information.

    I currently have my 4.0 low comp pistons being removed from their conrods to go on my 4.6 rods so that I will end up with a mid comp 4.6 and I will ask the engine shop which is easiest to get.

    I will be using a Crow 4.6 towing cam so either lifter should be OK.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #17
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    FWIW: I examined all options for a new cam (RPi /Turner/ Piper/Kent/ local etc and ended up buying an OEM (manufacturer) 4.6 cam from Karcraft ($188). I got a set of new lifters and rockers (all standard) from Turner UK. The rockers (matched set) are one-piece steel and the cups/pads are machined from the billet... so no pads/cups disappearing and being "eaten".. (lost 3 that way). There was minimal difference in price for OEM lifters from Karcraft and Turners when postage was included... but the one piece rockers while avaliable from Karcraft were not "matched"...

    Given that the heads had been skimmed I also bought a set of Turner shims for the rocker posts to get the preload back within spec, even though I used a composite head gasket).

    For running in I used Penrite running-in oil for 1000km (has a high zinc phosphate concentration - but not enough to ruin the O2 sensors).
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  8. #18
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    In relation to the radiator it's just been replaced post smash repairs and the temps have never been better (sub 90 on 35+ days).

    The engine was done about 3 years ago and ran on the old cam, lifters etc plus the original cooling system. All due to budgetary constraints.

    An OEM cam from O/S is about 40 pounds. I'm ok with a std cam (4.6) as I'm chasing economy more than performance.

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