First K&N filter clean, I wish I had millions of dollars

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Originally Posted by Dougal

OP seems to have gone from paper filter and stock intake to a K$N and snorkle.
So not exactly a valid comparison either.

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And now I've seen just how dirty the filter gets on the road, I'll be using a pre filter on the snorkel head on dirt.

Happy Days.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Bingo.

High Si in particular will show with a K&N in dusty conditions, as well as elevated Pb, Al and Fe.

Silicon is used in some/most oils as an anti-foaming agent, but it's noticeable on a UOA when it's dust ingestion.

One of the South Africans posted some really good pics probably a decade ago on one of the now defunct UK boards of a 300Tdi with 80,000km of K&N use in predominantly dirt road conditions.

Every bore was totally stuffed, required a maximum re-bore. (and it wasn't a case of soft bores)

isuzurover also recounted the story of an F1 engine manufacturer that used K&N's until the first race in the middle east where they dusted multiple engines from the constant sand blowing across the circuit.
IIRC air flow and face velocities were pretty high, (naturally) but it's a pretty good illustration of what can happen.

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Like I said I'm keen to do a Oil test but how much and where do I find these places.

Something I'm not sure about though is how it shows engine wear. I'm only guessing but I suspect it has to do with diesel (both burnt and unburnt) passing the rings. My issue at the moment is I do 2 very short runs each day, to and from work. It's only about 5 - 6 minutes and the engine just reaches operating temperature as I arrive. I imagine this would show as a badly worn engine due to most of the running being when all the parts aren't fully heat expanded and appearing undersized due to wear.

Happy Days.

It measure amounts of metals in the oils along with silicas ie dirt

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Originally Posted by 460cixy

It measure amounts of metals in the oils along with silicas ie dirt

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Cool. How much should I expect it to cost?

Happy Days.

CBC list it as a service on their web site but no pricing. (oil testing)

Happy Days

I've been doing some reading on oil analysis and I'm very keen to get it done.

I will expect some extra soot as I have a Bruce Davis tune. The tune came with the vehicle when I bought it but I since found it is for a EU3 motor and I only have a EU2. For those that dont know the EU3 has a atmopheric pressure sensor in the air box and the EU2 doesn't. The result of having the EU3 tune without the EU2 sensor is the tune considers the vehicle to be about 600m BELOW sea level which would make the air very dense and allow more fueling. As the vehicle is not below sea level and the air is not so dense, it over fuels. The result is pretty poor fuel economy but I love the extra power and I will be getting a TD5 inside tune as soon as I can afford it.

As far as the K&N is concerend, I will be just interested to see how much dust is getting in the oil. The next thing is I'll need to see some other oil analisyses from TD5s to compare mine with.

Happy Days.

Last time I was involved in this kind of thing, it was costing circa $30 for a test, or less as part of a regular monitoring program - you can pick and choose the tests you want done, but you only really need the wear metals results.

SGS Australia - Used Oil & Lubricant Analysis - Trade

or

Wear Metals Testing

they will need a sample of clean, new engine oil for comparison purposes...

one more, in darwin too...

ALS Global

I had K&N on my Nissan/holden cars. the skyline diesel suffered oil in the air box until I fitted a K&N.


K&N was $86 in the 90's and a holden/ryco coated filter was $30+ so with redline cleaning kit-never used I followed the instuctions and serviced them at 160 000Km,to reoil when the filter changes colour.


I did mine when it faded.


over time cheep paper elements became available-to buy a paper element for a skyline you had to buy the air box assembly. paper filters from discount stores worked and could be recleaned but in tropical rain they ended up in the air flow meter.


I love the example of how bad a K&N is compared to a genuine hummer filter--until I saw the size of a hummer filter. Like why would you buy a filter for a falcon when they last more than 50 000Km and are $9.


the bomag roller we have at work uses a MANN filter. every oil change,250hr, the filter is removed-and was binned. ever few filters the safety filter is replaced. the supplier recommended never to reclean these filters as they are paper and they are easily damaged.-recently we been sending them out and often they are rejected.


our graders often only a tap out or a blow off.the afety filter is recommended annual replacement only.the new 12M has back to base with filter warnings often between oil changes.it has massive pre cleaner and water carts to keep the dust down.


the pre 2000 Nissan and Subaru forester felt better when driving with a K&N.just tap on the tyre to knock of the bugs.

My old D2 has always run standard paper filters with grease seal around the lips (also has snorkel fitted).

My son owns it now and while he uses 2 x K&N pods in his RX7 (which obviously never goes off road) he would never even consider using K&N in the D2 (Td5).

He's a diesel fitter / mechanic and has had a lot of experience with a wide range of filtration systems in dusty environments (mining industry). He also has easy access to oil testing facilities - most in the industry over here use Westrac (Caterpillar) as we also do where I work.

He has read through Isuzurover's previous posts on the subject, and says they are right on the money. Knowing what Dave does for a living and also what my son tells me - there will never be anything but paper filters in my vehicles, regardless of what some May claim to experience with other types.

Even with paper though, if you don't make sure they are correctly sized, fitted and sealed, you're eventually up for an expensive re-build.


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