Thread: Disco 1, swivel ball removeal question..

Originally Posted by flatsix

Q for the Disco 1 gurus


Want to slot my balls and increase castor, can I just remove the swivel pins (after taking all the ancillaries off obviously) and pull the whole assembly complete with half shafts off the balls?


If that's possible, on reassembly how does it go getting the half shafts back into the diff head, is there enough room to be able to lift the shaft it so it positions itself okay to enter


Thanks


Gone but not forgotten
59 SWB TC
66 SWB FFR
72 SWB TC Diesel
78 SWB Rag top 4DR5
76 SWB HT
86 RR
95 RR

Yes done it many a time

That's great news, wasn't looking forward to taking the whole hub apart to do this, can now spend more time making up a neat jig to hold the hub on the dividing head for the slotting job.


Cheers



Gone but not forgotten
59 SWB TC
66 SWB FFR
72 SWB TC Diesel
78 SWB Rag top 4DR5
76 SWB HT
86 RR
95 RR

Originally Posted by flatsix

That's great news, wasn't looking forward to taking the whole hub apart to do this, can now spend more time making up a neat jig to hold the hub on the dividing head for the slotting job.


Cheers



Gone but not forgotten
59 SWB TC
66 SWB FFR
72 SWB TC Diesel
78 SWB Rag top 4DR5
76 SWB HT
86 RR
95 RR

Apart from the time factor, the whole hub assemebly is very simple and simple to work on. If you are pulling to get to swivels, I would be asking myself, what Kms have the other consumable components done, and could anything do with replacing. Better to do it now than in 6-12months and have to strip down again.

Yes, that would be a good idea, and certainly in keeping with my hobby which is buying Landrovers, spending shedloads of money on them, and then selling them for about 1/4 what they owe me!


This particular vehicle has a 2" lift and has been vague and darty in the steering dept. Have done bushes, new tie rod ends, set toe, adjusted preload and put in 2 degree correction bushes, tightened the steering box, etc and while its better, its not good enough.


Wheel aligment sheet showed I had 10 minutes of castor before I put in 2 degree bushes in.


So will slot the hubs to get at least 5 degrees and experiment, if that doesn't sort it, it will be down the road and I go back to RRs


Cheers

Flatsix,
not only does it make more sense to just strip and clean the shebang
setting up the jigs to hold the whole lot including say the long axle stub AND still be able to machine the slots would be a bear.
Stripping down to the swivel shouldnt take too much more than 20 minutes, and would save that in jig time at the mill I imagine!

S

Not quite........the intention is to remove the top and bottom swivel pins, remove the oil seal and retention plate plate at the back, and take off the whole stub axle assembly with brake rotors, callipers etc attached, and the half shaft will come out with it


That will leave the swivel ball itself still attached to the axle, I take that off, jig it up and away we go with the carbide end mill.


Cheers

probably want to un attach the calipers so you dont have to re bleed the brakes.

Yeah okay that makes a lot more sense...
Just be wary of the weight! I have changed out swivel seals by pulling the swivel bolts before but to be honest with a rattle gun the time difference would be largely inconsequential and you get to give the CVs and swivel bearings and the wheel bearings a once over????

It is also easier I find to set up the swivel preload without all the other guff in the way and I would be guessing that is something you would want to square away too if you are changing up the castor angle.

But to answer your question yeah its easy enough to get the shafts back into the rover diff when you have the whole shebang off at the swivel ball bolts - I have never tried to do it via the swivel bearing pins. And having done it that way I wouldnt recommend it

Steve