Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: Purchased my first discovery, what should I expect to go wrong first :-)

  1. #11
    DiscoMick Guest
    Does it have any rust under the front carpet or in the luggage area?

    Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Denmark Western Australia
    Posts
    594
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by joshhill31 View Post
    Thanks for the advice guys, gives me an idea of things to look at. A cooling system service and check was going to be first on the agenda. Just a quick question, the temperature guage on the dash always reads a little over half way, it never goes any further but is this normal?
    Like I said below , there's been a real good thread onthe d1 page how and what goes on with the temp gauge , and the digital unit that could save your motor..I forced mine to 98deg yesterday ,36 deg air temp big hill and air cond flat out the digital gauge showed 98 deg and the std gauge never budged from it usual 1/2 way point..Gary

  3. #13
    joshhill31 Guest
    No rust discomick and carpets seem dry, although it's been a while since I saw a cloud or rain. The plastic plenum directly under the windscreen is cracked though, so whether it'll stay that way through winter is another question.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    669
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Temp gauge on Disco is controled by computer don't trust it as it wil lead to tears put in after market gauges then you will get a better idea of what the car is doing.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,839
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As per many threads, basically temp gauge stays reading in the middle until your engine is about to cook and its too late to do anthing about it then jumps. LR should be prosecuted for that gauge! Replace it with a proper non LR one that works.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    brighton, brisbane
    Posts
    33,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Another vote for the after market temp. gauge. Engine saver low coolant alarm essential as well, IMO. Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    28
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I got one too a few months back. It was cheap, and I got what I paid for. Check the following:

    XYZ Sensor (assuming yours is Auto) - Not sure if they rectified the issue on the later cars but the Air Con drain pipe lets out onto the switch, eventually causing it to malfunction.

    Check trans. fluid.

    Roof Leaks. Mine had the Land Rover bulletined gutter cracks at the leading end where the gutter meets the top of the windscreen. The cracks are visible to the naked eye and only need to be cleaned out and filled with quality sealant.

    Check diff. fluids.

    Check rear chassis for rust. I thought I'd done a good job before handing over money. But the rust was deceptive. Admittedly I'm in a far worse climate than you.

    Do not hurt your front bumper. They cost a fortune (relatively speaking)

    Rear wiper motor/mech. can dry up and seize. But easy to free and grease.

    Tailgate seal can leak too, but again, the door is easy to adjust.

    Not sure if the petrol models have a water in fuel sensor on the fuel filter, but this has plastic threads which are often rung. Replace like for like or simply tuck the wire and connection up out of harms way and replace sensor with the standard drain plug. My filter needed changing in the field, and only then did I realise the previous owner had wrecked the senor threads. The new filter came with the standard plug which was great. I left the sensor in the wiring connector to keep the connector's terminals clean in the interim.

    Another water related one you prob won't have to deal with is the scuttle panel under the bonnet/wipers. It's a little too flat in design and water/crud can gather there.

    Other than that, I could only advise on diesel model issues. But do keep and eye (and ear) out for the front prop health.

    Oh and educate yourself on "the three amigos".

    It's a good car, I swear.

  8. #18
    DiscoMick Guest
    There are a couple of plastic plugs in the top of the cooling system which ae one-use only. Replacement brass ones ae widely available and cheap, so a good idea.

    Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

  9. #19
    joshhill31 Guest
    Thanks for all the input guys.

    Took her in for a coolant system flush/ service and general health check on Friday and her filled with the recommended red penrite coolant. The garage I used were highly recommended and although they were pushed for time did, the mechanic had a general look over and told me to keep an eye on a small power steering pump leak. Nothing too major though he thought.
    Also ordered a multigauge from America, that should arrive next week so I can keep an eye on temps etc. looks like a nice bit of kit, anybody had any positive or negative experience with them.
    Other than that we're going well. No leaks Shackleton, but then I haven't had the chance to test it in rain yet :-)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    nsw
    Posts
    87
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi there
    My advice is
    Don't rely on your temp gauges there not accurate, get some quality window pilar mount gauges with warning lights(temp and oil pressure) are a must have for V8.. The engine watchdog won't read oil pressure, only temps..

    Your engine temp should be around 90-98C when hot, thermo kicks in at 98.

    Remove and replace plugs and leads with platinum plugs and 8mm HT leads. You will need to remove the plenum intake to get to coil pack 30mins work.

    While you have the intake off remove rocker covers to inspect and clean carbon build up and replace gaskets.

    Remove timing cover no need to remove water pump as it s bolted to cover. Remove oil pump cover, make alignment marks on oil pump gears, remove pump gears to check for cracks as there's a good chance they are cracked. Replace timing cover crankshaft seal. This requires sump removal, check your oil pickup for blockage, clean everything as you go, lock tite is required.

    Replace O2 sensors, exhaust flange gaskets and check header bolts for tightness.

    This is what I would start checking , all up around a days work but don't rush it.
    Just stick to the overhaul manual and torque specs, tightening sequence and you shouldn't have any probs as these engines are simple to work on. good luck ImageUploadedByAULRO1394365565.026065.jpg

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!