Ashcroft Force 9, is there anything better?

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Originally Posted by blackrangie

As far as i know its hydroboost: Hydroboost brakes

Its not a comp truck and wont be driven as a comp truck, if you thrash dana 60's with the right tyres and hp they too will break.

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Thats a good thing, I have one for my Nissan

Your excuses on breakages are irrelevant

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Originally Posted by blackrangie

Yep..if i had it my way i would go 31 or 35spline diff to hubs, however the people with the experience (Barry from high tough, Andrew from LRA and Dave from Ashcroft are saying it may not be needed). Spoken to all 3.
Dave from Ashcroft has indicated he may be able to supply the parts needed to run 31 or 35spline on the hub side to suppliers (not direct) Also all 3 agree guys agreed that the weak point could very well be elsewhere, prop/tranny etc.

Having said that i like the thought of 35splines in the rear and will try my best to make it happen..but its not the end of the world if i have to run 31or 35-24, at least if we go down that track and an axle does let go(axles are not massive dollars), there will be a case study to show it wont work.

As for the brakes, They will be vented, that with the hydroboost will stop insanely well!:eek:

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Any of them hung around the Comp stuff much or the people that compete? any off them take there own vehicle and break the stuff in the bush?

Any of them happen to be selling the goods they make......

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Originally Posted by blackrangie

Ahh yes the comment where he was helping to sell the Sals :D

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Yea, cheers for that, its sold and for some funny reason I still mention its a good idea;) maybe cause it was not a sales pitch, its was an awseome oppurtunity for you to get bolt if diffs, no engineering and could be built to actually use your "500+HP" without breakage, unless the set up now......but of course the dudes selling you the gear have no vested interest...

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Any of them hung around the Comp stuff much or the people that compete? any off them take there own vehicle and break the stuff in the bush?

Any of them happen to be selling the goods they make......



Yea, cheers for that, its sold and for some funny reason I still mention its a good idea;) maybe cause it was not a sales pitch, its was an awseome oppurtunity for you to get bolt if diffs, no engineering and could be built to actually use your "500+HP" without breakage, unless the set up now......but of course the dudes selling you the gear have no vested interest...

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Im certainly not going to discount the combined experience if Barry, Dave and Andrew, all of whom who have many decades of experience in building tough LR's and repairing them. However i also respect everone else's opinion as long as its reasonable, 9's with 35 spline, and dana 60 with 35spline are both proven and will both work, however both are not cheap to build to that level or purchase built. 9" option just gives more clearance any is able to handle more HP and has the ability to run a higher pinion.
All these things are important to me, not just price. True Hp figure is 556hp so the 9" thats run in 1000hp street cars will do me fine :D

My decision has not been based on anyones selling anything to me, infact everything that i have wanted was not available when i started looking however 3 companies have come to the party under LRA to make this happen, im trying for the 35spline, and its looking positive, however if its not possible just yet, ill run 35 or 31- 24 no worries and see how it goes.

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Originally Posted by blackrangie

Im certainly not going to discount the combined experience if Barry, Dave and Andrew, all of whom who have many decades of experience in building tough LR's and repairing them. However i also respect everone else's opinion as long as its reasonable, 9's with 35 spline, and dana 60 with 35spline are both proven and will both work, however both are not cheap to build to that level or purchase built. 9" option just gives more clearance any is able to handle more HP and has the ability to run a higher pinion.
All these things are important to me, not just price. True Hp figure is 556hp so the 9" thats run in 1000hp street cars will do me fine :D

My decision has not been based on anyones selling anything to me, infact everything that i have wanted was not available when i started looking however 3 companies have come to the party under LRA to make this happen, im trying for the 35spline, and its looking positive, however if its not possible just yet, ill run 35 or 31- 24 no worries and see how it goes.

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Traction and load forces in the bush are vastly different to a road car, no matter what 'figures' you like to quote

What do these guys drive? last I seen Andrew had a D2, which was relatively stock, with stock bolt in gear, he ain't been breaking stuff and Barry? what about Dave from Ashcroft?

Anyone tell you to fit and remove your rear axles you will have to disassemble the whole hub/rotor assembly and take of the spindles with those axles?

I honestly don't think you will break it, as its not going to be having the power smashed to the ground, but if you really are, that drivetrain is not good enough

So will a pegged rover front end last?
Haha no no no. I have seen pegged rover crownwheels smashed to bits just with the power of a mighty 3.5 rover motor.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

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Originally Posted by moparrangie

So will a pegged rover front end last?
Haha no no no. I have seen pegged rover crownwheels smashed to bits just with the power of a mighty 3.5 rover motor.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

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Not sure mate

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Anyone tell you to fit and remove your rear axles you will have to disassemble the whole hub/rotor assembly and take of the spindles with those axles?

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No?

that's the only reason to use the 24 spline outer....or to save making an end cap

if doing that, which I think is wrong, you may aswell go 35-24, alteast that saves part of the expense on switching to 35 spline axles at a later date

I mean really, if/when your 31-24 does not work, you are up for new axles, end caps and rear diff centre/locker or atleast side gears replaced/rebroached

atleast with 35-24 you only replace axles and bits you would have to buy anyway, only waste like $800 that way:D

When your front breaks, its another mass of wasted money

Build bulletproof from day dot......this is not for the normal guy, this is for a guy who reckons he will apply "500+HP" in the bush and the reality of achieving that without breakage

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Originally Posted by rovercare

No?

that's the only reason to use the 24 spline outer....or to save making an end cap

if doing that, which I think is wrong, you may aswell go 35-24, alteast that saves part of the expense on switching to 35 spline axles at a later date

I mean really, if/when your 31-24 does not work, you are up for new axles, end caps and rear diff centre/locker or atleast side gears replaced/rebroached

atleast with 35-24 you only replace axles and bits you would have to buy anyway, only waste like $800 that way:D

When your front breaks, its another mass of wasted money

Build bulletproof from day dot......this is not for the normal guy, this is for a guy who reckons he will apply "500+HP" in the bush and the reality of achieving that without breakage

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Agreed

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Originally Posted by moparrangie

So will a pegged rover front end last?
Haha no no no. I have seen pegged rover crownwheels smashed to bits just with the power of a mighty 3.5 rover motor.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

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Have you seen a front ashcroft pegged break? If so when and under what circumstances or was it rear?

I believe matt and mopar have seen pretty much anything in the 4x4 world break.

I agree with if your going to do it, do it once, build the high9 front.:)

Iirc, aren't jacmac toy flanges 31 spline? I do remember having to machine the spindles to fit the axles through (wrong end I know), due to the diameter, this may be better that 24 spline flanges?