Ashcroft Force 9, is there anything better?

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Originally Posted by rovercare

I haven't worked on cars for money for years, to much money being an eliktrishan in PNG these days

I positively think it would be a good thing, Andrew does great work, I met him at woods point pub and his mechanic, nice dudes

I'm just reasoning cost worth result, there is cheaper ways to get a great result, with rover stuff you still have to add brakes into the costs as the standard stuff is poor

H260 pinion, just use H233, its strong enough plenty. those that move away for more strength move to......Dana 60's;), which brings us back to front and rear sals, you could build front and rear diff's, that you could supply your 500+HP at full throttle without fear of breakage, that can't be said for 9" rear and rover front, 24 spline end will not be unbreakable, many fail, barry makes a great product, but that size axle and material is only good for so much

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Hydroboost drilled and slotted is the go for the brakes..stops like a racecar :eek:

Understood with the cost v result debate, however as mentioned for me other factors are also important.

The rear 9" will be bulletproof, as for the axles will be running Hi Tough 31-24 (Sals are 24spline from memory) spline axles/flanges which only time will tell if they are strong enough, however Barry has indicated he will be able to supply the parts to move up to 31-31 if need be..Barry and LRA both want to go the easier option first as the latter option may be unneserarily overengineered and more expense for the client. And for all we know the propshaft may be the weak point first.

For the front same goes, no point overengineering stuff thats allready available and known to be tuff unless you know its going to break or have a case study where it has broken due to the torque/hp of said engine. Front will be Ascroft Pegged 3rd Ashcroft CW&P, Ashcroft Locker, 24spline Hi tough axles and Flanges and Ashcroft CV'S.
Considering most of the weight goes to the rear when driving on or offroad and even more so with uphill driving, i cant see the above setup letting go.However only time will tell and as with the rear, maybe the propshaft or a uni will let go first.

If the front does end up not being strong enough and there are case studies to support that, then it will be a Rover9 in the front too, and im sure LRA will come to the party with that too if it is needed.

As for the Dana 60 being bulletproof, im not so sure, apparently dana 80 is the new 60.:D
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...-axle-upgrade/

Hydrabooster you mean? still, upgrading to 110 calipers makes a massive difference, hydraboosters do aswell

Pegged rover fronts break, 24 spline axles break, if your not breaking these components, you are not applying "500+HP" to the ground in the bush

If its driven within reason these components are far more than enough for the average built up rover type person, but you told me you will be applying "500+HP" in the bush, if you are these will break. if its just recreational 4wd stuff, it will be fine with the stuff you mention

If your gonna thrash it with that much HP, you will break it basically:)

hang on, so your going a tru-hi 9 centre, custom housing, custom axles, 500hp and staying 24 spline at the hubs??

And if you are thinking drilled and slotted rotors, they are a waste of time on a 4x4. Vented yes, drilled and slotted no.

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Originally Posted by uninformed

hang on, so your going a tru-hi 9 centre, custom housing, custom axles, 500hp and staying 24 spline at the hubs??

And if you are thinking drilled and slotted rotors, they are a waste of time on a 4x4. Vented yes, drilled and slotted no.

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That's probably a better way of putting it....I'm not very good with diplomatic:)

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Hydrabooster you mean? still, upgrading to 110 calipers makes a massive difference, hydraboosters do aswell

Pegged rover fronts break, 24 spline axles break, if your not breaking these components, you are not applying "500+HP" to the ground in the bush

If its driven within reason these components are far more than enough for the average built up rover type person, but you told me you will be applying "500+HP" in the bush, if you are these will break. if its just recreational 4wd stuff, it will be fine with the stuff you mention

If your gonna thrash it with that much HP, you will break it basically:)

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As far as i know its hydroboost: http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/conte...d5_Engine.html

Its not a comp truck and wont be driven as a comp truck, if you thrash dana 60's with the right tyres and hp they too will break.

I think the point Matt is making is why have 20mm chain with one link only 10mm thick.

Every after market 24 spline rover axle has been broken in LR/RRC/Disco of some sort with Rover diffs.

So you will have a well built housing and centre and must be doing so for peice of mind. What happens when you twist the end off a axle? you have to wait for Barry to make some, and then do it again.

You will have spares made you might say, well spend that $$ on getting it 35 spline end to end from the get go.

No point having a imbalanced driveline.

Yes anything can be broken, but that doesnt support either arguement.

Ill put this to you, would anyone in the USA build even a stock ford 9 with LR 24 spline size axles on any 4x4 over there?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

hang on, so your going a tru-hi 9 centre, custom housing, custom axles, 500hp and staying 24 spline at the hubs??

And if you are thinking drilled and slotted rotors, they are a waste of time on a 4x4. Vented yes, drilled and slotted no.

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Yep..if i had it my way i would go 31 or 35spline diff to hubs, however the people with the experience (Barry from high tough, Andrew from LRA and Dave from Ashcroft are saying it may not be needed). Spoken to all 3.
Dave from Ashcroft has indicated he may be able to supply the parts needed to run 31 or 35spline on the hub side to suppliers (not direct) Also all 3 agree guys agreed that the weak point could very well be elsewhere, prop/tranny etc.

Having said that i like the thought of 35splines in the rear and will try my best to make it happen..but its not the end of the world if i have to run 31or 35-24, at least if we go down that track and an axle does let go(axles are not massive dollars), there will be a case study to show it wont work.

As for the brakes, They will be vented, that with the hydroboost will stop insanely well!:eek:

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Originally Posted by blackrangie

Any suggestions? It would be hard to beat the Force 9 spec wise and its bolt in nature.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

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Rovercare answered this in his first reply back on page 1. Pretty cheap option.

If clearance is a problem and money is not an issue then just add portals to the same Sals diffs and use defender callipers to get great brakes.

Good to see LRA have a 'special vehicles' division these days based on RRC's. Have seen one in the flesh in their yard and was very impressed. Wouldn't want to get it scratched.

DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Rovercare answered this in his first reply back on page 1. Pretty cheap option.

If clearance is a problem and money is not an issue then just add portals to the same Sals diffs and use defender callipers to get great brakes.

Good to see LRA have a 'special vehicles' division these days based on RRC's. Have seen one in the flesh in their yard and was very impressed. Wouldn't want to get it scratched.

DL

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Ahh yes the comment where he was helping to sell the Sals :D actually i investigated buying them however after investigating much of the information in this thread, the 9 was the option that fitted MY needs,
From a purchasers perspective, To get a built sals with all the gear into a RRC is not that cheap like you say, you have to buy the sals,pay to get it shaved, upgrade the diffs to Dana 60 (35 spline), upgrade the diff cover, CW&P change, axle upgrade,flanges, brakes and your still 24spline at the wheel or am i missing something. It is however a good option as ive said previously however the 9 ticks more boxes for me.

I would rather the Rover9" for the near stock clearance, stock housing width and pricing from what i can see is not all that diff erent from the sals if you are not building yourself ;) also the option to put the mighty truhi9 in sold it for me.

Portals..always had a soft spot for them, however i like to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible and im not too sure if the engineer would like them..heard of people breaking the Tibus ones too :( are there any other portal options for rovers other than dynatrac previously mentioned? Or has Tibus fixed his offering?

Yep i know the feeling, saw the black one myself getting built with the 525hp LS3, lets just say it wasnt too long before i got inline..they have just released a dedicated website www.stormseries.com.au
As for the scratching, all new toys are precious, give him a few years haha..ill be going gunmetal grey and extra clear coat :D

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Originally Posted by uninformed

I think the point Matt is making is why have 20mm chain with one link only 10mm thick.

Every after market 24 spline rover axle has been broken in LR/RRC/Disco of some sort with Rover diffs.

So you will have a well built housing and centre and must be doing so for peice of mind. What happens when you twist the end off a axle? you have to wait for Barry to make some, and then do it again.

You will have spares made you might say, well spend that $$ on getting it 35 spline end to end from the get go.

No point having a imbalanced driveline.

Yes anything can be broken, but that doesnt support either arguement.

Ill put this to you, would anyone in the USA build even a stock ford 9 with LR 24 spline size axles on any 4x4 over there?

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Agree with everything you have said there.