I have heard that using a aftermarket ECU, like the wolf improves engine braking as well, espically on downhills... is this true ?
I think the you may find the $900 Wolf may be a 2D these don't map Ignition only fuel, 3d does both. Forget the hand controler if you can they take way to long to tune. I've done a wolf on a Ser 3 Jag using a hand controler and it took ages. Useing a lap top or even a desk top if you have to is the way to go. Most ecus will display all relevant gauges ie water temp, rpm ,lambda, % throttle and you get to look at a nice map of the entire rev range. If you use an ECU that can do spark you lock up the dissy and get rid of the vac advance. Set the ignition to a base line of what the standard set up does and then work from there.
Most Ecus tune off a MAP sense (manifold absolute pressure) rather than an Airflow meter. Basically you have 3 states of Vacuum, Lots which is no load, non which is full load / wide throttle and positive pressure which is boost from a blower. On an un blown engine you basically just give it enough fuel to run un loaded at 500rpm steps to say 2500rpm then guess the rest to say 5k just so it will rev with no load. Then in the map again just add some extra fuel in the no vacuum part of the map so you can bring it on load with out hurting it. Once you have done this you just bring the engine up to say 2.5-3k with no load and then feed the dyno brake in till you have full load ie no vac but don't stall it add or take fuel till the exhaust is correct this is really easy if the ecu gives you a lambda readout. Then just do the same at about 1500 rpm, I then just smooth out the map between and extend up to 4500-5000 rpm, a bit on the fat side prior to running it on load up high. This will be pretty close so then do a high speed run get that correct, smooth the map again and do some spot load checks at 1k spaces. Most ecus will also have a cold start % enrichment ( this saves you heaps of fuel) you need to play a bit here over a couple of cold starts to get the min % of fuel for the shortest time that you can live with. They will also have a % enrichment for an accelerator pump and full throttle enrichment, this uses the TPS to know when to chuck some extra fuel in and this over rides the maps, again this takes a couple of goes. You can do a good base line tune in around an hour if every thing goes your way. If however you just want to fudge the factory tune just use an interuptor/piggy back unit to lie to the ecu about what the airflow meter thinks is going on.
I have heard that using a aftermarket ECU, like the wolf improves engine braking as well, espically on downhills... is this true ?
Couldn't say, the cars I've worked on were not looking for that they were hot street cars. However most ECU's have an option to cut all fuel on closing throttle, this may have some effect.
Hey all.... HALTECH E6K FUEL INJECTION COMPUTER for sale on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW
$995 to be exact from mildrens in adelaide, its the latest versios 3d, newer than version4, doesn't come with sensors, so use original, or hand controller
they deal in roters rx7's etc
Wolfs can also do dual maps for those running LPG. My brother has secured a complete 3d for $800 (brand new in box), and yes it is legit (he's a mechanic and knows people who know people etc).
I haven't fitted it yet, the tyranny of distance as he's in Melbourne and I'm in Darwin & there is no way I'd get someone up here to do the work.
Guess I'll just have to wait.
EMS can do 2 maps as well can can be changed by a switch on the dash.
Have a Wolf 3D on the 4.6, got rid of those problem AF Meters and I will say that the engine has been totally reliable since it was installed. I have dual maps ULP and LPG and the Wolf changes automatically between the two (automatically shuts off the fuel pump). I can alter the tuning via my PC and can show the maps on screen (it does'nt make any difference, I don't understand them anyway!) have also saved the current settings so if anything happens I can reload them into the EMS.
One of the original reasons to install the Wolf was for fuel economy prior to a trip to the High Country in 2000, as the distance was considerable I surmised that it may meet a large part of the cost but it really didn't make a great deal of difference to the economy. It did however give a noticeable increase in power. Given a choice I would go the same way again.
Hope this is of assistance
RichardK
Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,
Wolf 3d computer on ebay....
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW
The wolf i found to be worths it money .. For those buying i would suggest get the hand controller because if you are out bush and you need to check or adjust something it tells you all . If you take your time and do it right it is pretty easy to install . I found the tuning to be difficult when i first started (using only hand controller) but after getting a up date from wolf themself ( i just took the main unit into them ) i asked a few question and i was away [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] . Very simple when you are shown and have a laptop handy .. For thoses interested and live in mebourne drop me a pm if you want alook at it ..
I will try for some pics
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