at what point would you change? and what is the reasoning behind running a touch thinner than the 15/40?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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at what point would you change? and what is the reasoning behind running a touch thinner than the 15/40?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Don't forget to add a little bit of extra engine oil - just to be sure! :p
Sorry - I couldn't help myself - but honestly, I'm the same as you when a car has let me down, and sometimes it doesn't hurt to just flog the damn thing to convince yourself that it won't suddenly blow up again. You know, just get back to using it properly.
Glad to hear your truck is up and running again.
I have had a good run with my 300tdi over the last 10 years, but the 2.8TGV was always my dream engine should I win the lotto. So I was sorry to hear of your troubles.
What Land Rover really should have done is build a 450tdi.
Did the guys who rebuilt the engine make any comparison of the robustness of the 2.8TGV vs the 300tdi?
or made the td5 with the same bore and stroke as the 300tdi (would have been 3125cc) or, or, or :D
Yes, as has been stated in this thread some things are definitely better. Block seems good. Crank is forged not cast. Conrods are very good. Pistons are Mahle. Timing gears are cast and nice finish not pressed tin. Oil cooler is a proper one not a bit of pipe.
Wow, that's an epic story! :o This thread has ensured I didn't do any work today. I started at page 1 around lunch, and I've just finished. :p To summarise what I would have posted through the life of this thread:
Sorry to hear that -> Holy crap -> Congrats and good to hear it's running again! :)
well Ive learnt a bit and hope it helps someone else. Also it shows that LR has some good people here. Some even prepared to have their ears chewed off on the phone. Thanks again to those that now screne their phone calls :D
you'd run the thinner oil initially as it will come up to pressure faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
hydraulics 101, pumps dont make pressure they make flow
pressure is the resistance to flow.
With a new engine all the tolerances are nice and tight so you can run a thinner oil the pump will do less work and prime faster which will get the system up to operating pressure faster.
You need a very accurate pressure gauge but generally Id be on the thinner oil for up to 50, 60 thousand K's changing it out to a thicker oil as soon as the oil relief valve was no longer opening up all the way, This is indicated by an initial drop in oil pressure at high idle with the engine warm (say nominal pressure for your engine was a steady 40psi @1000rpm on a wamr engine as soon as you started reading a confirmed 39 psi in the same condition then its time to change up to the next grade of oil.
Similarly you watch the metal production of the engine in the drained oil and in the filter, the engine will produce a little metal which will show up as a very very fine metalic sheen in the oil, when this changes and it "looks" worse than it was before then its also time to change up.
If the engine runs away on you... ummm you probably went too thin and added too much :)
as a side note... If you want the turbo timer from the disco (the one with the on off switch) I've had to disconnect it for eletrical fault finding reasons its yours for the asking.
Thanks, but IMO no turbo timer required.
Sorry Dave, you would fail hydraulics 101.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
The Pressure (head) of a pump and the flow rate are impossible to separate, as each is a function of the other.
Pumps are selected based on the pump duty curve.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/04/1269.jpg
That's a centrigugal pump curve, a 300tdi oil pump is a positive displacement pump, surely that's totally different!Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover