Thread: Fed up with smoke maker....i mean 2.6 ltr six

Autopsy results part 2!

Well, every bore is scored, not too deeply but bad enough, a hone should take it out, the old rings are shagged and some of the oil rings look like they've lost tension. Hopefully a set of Zooks os rings might take up the slack....i hope. The bores are at 60 thou oversize, thats maximum isn't it?
The big ends are worn out so i'll need a new set of those too, there at 30 thou under which i think is max too, luckily the pins are in good nick with no scratches. While i'm in there i guess i'd better check the mains too.
I was hoping to have the Olddog near completion and ready for rego but i think this will hold the project back quite a ways. Bugger!
Any suggestions?

Bill

:roll: mate i feel for you!nothin like nearly driving down to the rego place to get the old girl rego-ed then something goes wrong been there ,done that!all i can say is do it right ,do it once!whilst you got it stripped down dont forget to check the crank for end float(back and forward movement),the placement of a few new spacers could make a difference 8) good luck

Originally posted by OldDog
Autopsy results part 2!

Any suggestions?

Bill

Use it to create an artificial reef. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] I'm joking!!

60thou in the block...... hmmmm.... I dunno.... how much do you wanna spend is the next question to you ? They can be resleeved just like diesels although some guys do it with petrols so they can get as much CI out of the block without actually going to a bigger block. The other some guys do it so they keep old engines going so the vehicle remains 'original'. All the machine shop does is cut the bores as big as they can then press a liner in there bringing it back to standard bore. Then you need new pistons and they'll cost :roll:

Providing the crank just needs a polish you could run another set of bearings of the same size that were there. Might drop the oil pressure but you just run thicker oil, like I do. :wink: You're probably going to find worn cam bearing, worn cam, duh dah, duh dah, duh dah which will probably going to turn into a hornets nest of cost to repair.

Easiest way out is dump a screaming GM in there with an adaptor bellhousing. Pick up GM's for around $250, I got mine for $100 'cos she had a bad bout of the flu (coughed alot and threw flames out the carby) when I inspected it, from most wreckers. I found my spare GM in a garage sale, free, the guy was a bit short of sheep. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

That's about all I can sorta suggest, weigh up what it's worth (the vehicle), what you'd have to pay to get the thing mobile again with a GM transplant or reco LR 6 and how long you want to keep it. Then make the decision accordingly. :wink:

since the bottom end was running no probs, put the reco head on and get your rego done and drive it easy for a while.

gives you time to save up dollars and make the correct decision.
how do you know it was bored out 60 thou?

you have a bit more time on your hands while its running to source another engine in better order to rebuild or to work out what a reco will cost for the one you got.
if its 60 thou oversize i guess its at its limit and cant be bored out any more.
it can be sleeved as mentioned and smaller(original size) pistons will be needed as mentioned above.
for the cost to do the job properly you might be able to get a new engine somewhere for the same price.

your cheapest option, going by the amount of wear in the current motor, would be the holden option.(as mentioned above)

i would just put the head on and cross my fingers.

Originally posted by DEFENDERZOOK
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how do you know it was bored out 60 thou?

Most of the time the numbers are stamped into the piston crowns. Normally the manufacturer, then the oversize in thou. Can usually pick it up with a wire wheel when polishing up the crowns before sticking the head back on, which aint a bad idea as it cleans away all the oil burnt (carbon) that can play funny tricks when the motor is started back up after a freshen.

Exactly so Mr Hellspawn [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]
I priced up the Holden motor option today, approx $700 for the conversion kit (i didn't know you had to mod the front x member!) + as my beast is a 1980 model i need to use a blue motor with all it's polution gear, not so cheap but still cheaper than rebuilding the 2.6 i'd guess. I'm a bit concerned though as the most common blue motor is the 3.3 or 202, i think that might a bit too much grunt for the gearbox when you consider it's probably in the same state of wear as the motor. The smart move might be to stick it back together with new rings and a hone, do what Zook recommends (cross my fingers [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] ) and consider my options.
Another interesting thing i found out, the holden conversion has to be engineered now 8O

Hi Old Dog
Was just on Ebay,there is a gasket set for a Landy 6,valve re-grind set,currently $19.99,6 days to run.
Item no 7961599997,found under a search for "Landrover" all items.
Andrew

Just dump the GM in there and don't tell anyone. Engineering Certs only last 10yrs and according to the RTA mines illegally modified all over the place but so long as I have the right to show a erect finger at them and just get a pink slip every year she'll remain a street and track warrior.
Mine was approved for GM in 1983 so .... there you go that's the starting point of mine and no one askes so I don't offer to tell them. But I'm sure everyone one does know now. ops:


So long as we all continue dumping torquey motors into series landies and tell the gearbox to 'cope', there will always be sheared teeth and broken axles. Just don't step off the clutch too often with bulk revs on board and shift smoothly and purposefully you should be okay. Hate to be paying for your fuel though with a 202 ... worse than mine 186 at full noise all day. 8O