-
18th March 2005, 06:49 PM
#31
at that price if you buy them then take them somewhere to get them reinforced it will still be cheaper
-
19th March 2005, 05:21 PM
#32
i dont want to sound negative. but those mounts are pretty average. the front mount is at the end of a 175mm long bolt, yes i know its grade10.9 but its still at the end of it. plus this mounting just wants to rotate. the rear mount is **** house.remeber a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. yes the slidder looks big and tough but those bolts will just pull through that 2mm plate. the rear outrigger was not designed to be lifted or take upward pressure. only to take the weight of the body. i don't know how to post pics but if some one can. go to "outerlimits4x4" go to "rover" section and search for a post titled strenghtened outrigger. this has photos of my front mounting which picks up 2 points of the bolt and the underside of the bulkhead which stops it rotating and what i did to strengthen the outrigger. i spoke to alot of well qualified people before i built mine :wink:
cheers, serg
-
20th March 2005, 03:24 AM
#33
-
20th March 2005, 06:16 AM
#34
Any more details on the Front chassis mount?
-
20th March 2005, 09:12 AM
#35
yes, the front mount is very easy. its just 75 x 75 x 4mm shs cut to suit (not just one face cut but a little of the sides, so it fits up under the body) measure and drill carefully so that the bolts a snug fit, hole 1mm over size, and the inside bottom of the now "U" channel is tight under the bulkhead. this "U" channel is a perfect fit. if you look at the bulkhead it has a pipe welded through it (which the bulkhead bolt passes through) which is wider than the bulkhead at this point, this is the inside measurement of a piece of 75 x 75 x 4mm (67mm). now its still only picking up the one bolt, BUT, it is alot less likely to bend/shear the end of it and is also using the bulkhead which is attached across the chassis. it will also stop it rotating. some may want to mount their sliders hard against the bulkhead, i didn't because if they do bend, i don't want them damaging the body, so against the end of the bulkhead, inside the "U" channel i welded a small piece(about 30mm high x 50mm wide)of 4mm plate. this stops the "U" chanel distorting the 2 outside bottom corners of the bulkhead in extreme conditions.
cheers serg
-
21st March 2005, 08:38 AM
#36
I agree with the sentiments that they are not perfect, however I can't weld so would have no hope making anything myself, maybe one day I will look at improvements but I will have to pay someone else to do it.
They have already paid for themselves. I have dropped the vehicle on them in a fashion which would have destroyed the original sills, and they survived fine. :wink:
-
21st March 2005, 09:20 AM
#37
don't be affaid to have a go. i couldn't weld 2 days before i did whats in those photo's. i just didn't want to pay some one to do a job that i knew i could do. just tell yourself you can do it and have a go. MIG welding is quite easy compared to stick and tig. :wink:
serg
-
21st March 2005, 09:35 AM
#38
Originally posted by Frenchie
I agree with the sentiments that they are not perfect, however I can't weld so would have no hope making anything myself, maybe one day I will look at improvements but I will have to pay someone else to do it.
They have already paid for themselves. I have dropped the vehicle on them in a fashion which would have destroyed the original sills, and they survived fine. :wink:
I totally agree, the tin they have there as Std is so light that just a piece of tube will save you.
I'll make mine so i can jack off them, but i'm not going to over do it
Other thing to remember. To my knowledge welding on a Chassis weakens that point and could cause fatigue. Could cause, might not, but could.
My 30c
-
21st March 2005, 05:37 PM
#39
Originally posted by sclarke
Other thing to remember. To my knowledge welding on a Chassis weakens that point and could cause fatigue. Could cause, might not, but could.
My 30c
That's why I was on the understanding that it was better to make a decent mount (plate) to the chassis rail and use 4 HT bolts to connect the two???
-
21st March 2005, 10:32 PM
#40
if you look at the pics, the point at which i have welded the chassis is along its length were the two "C" sections of chassis rail overlap and are factory welded. so i had 4mm plate meeting 4mm of chassis rail, as each section is 2mm thick. so as i have not welded across the rail, i don't think this will cause too much stress. basicly the rear outrigger is strong enough in a vertical plane,But, as only the top is boxed in and overlaps the top of the chassis rail, it will only provide resistance to downward pressure. no you couldn't rip it off upwards with your hand.....but a decent blow or jacking a fullly laden vehicle might rip it of like a can opener. now by caping the bottom and underlapping the rail i have created the same effect in reverse. plus by making the plate wider it acts as a brace or gusset. i have also welded in the outrigger some 15mm bore pipe squish tubes for the 50 x 50 x 5 mm angle mounting brackets that are welded to the main body of the slider. :wink:
cheers, serg
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
|
Search All the Web!
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks