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Thread: driveshaft touching cross member

  1. #1
    crossy Guest

    driveshaft touching cross member

    hi all,

    i am trying to get more suspension travel out of my
    S111 ex army. Unfortunatly the rear prop shaft is already
    kissing the crossmember at modest (down) travel.

    before i go all stupid with the angle grinder has anyone else
    had this problem and fixed it another way?

    btw, i still have the axel check straps fitted and bog standard mil suspension.

    Simon

  2. #2
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    if its all standard it shouldnt touch.
    are all the rubber mounts in good condition? (engine and gearbox)




    what exactly are you thinking of grinding off?

  3. #3
    crossy Guest
    thanks for replying.

    the prop shaft goes through the cross member (similar to a pto hole )
    and is fouling the bottom of it. The cross member is around 6" behind transfer case. gearbox mounts are 6 months old and in perfect nick. Engine mounts are shagged but not enough to be causing this problem.
    If i have to i will cut out the bottom loop out of this hole extend it and re-weld.

    I know plenty of people have improved the suspension travel on s3's but i have never heard of this problem.

    its got me stumped.
    i will post a pic as soon as i can figure out how.

  4. #4
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    i will wait to see the pic

  5. #5
    crossy Guest

  6. #6
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    Hi Crossy
    That is usually the problem on the front X member.That is best fixed by cutting out a section and welding in a section of 6 inch pipe.
    I have seen them cut at the bottom and a re-inforcement welded under.
    As a matter of curiosity,is it possible the rear springs have been fitted back to front,thus locating the rear axle further back and changing the geometery.???? Not 100% sure if its possible,I can check the measurements on my 2 109 landies if you want.
    Andrew
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  7. #7
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    Hi Crossy
    Had a quick measure on one of them.From the spring mount bolt to axle tube(in a straight line) In front of axle tube to bolt 580mm,from axle tube to rear bolt 560mm.
    I guess if the spring was in back to front(IF POSSIBLE ????) and the shorter measurement was at the front,would this increase the propshaft angle???? I think it probably would.
    Let us know what you find
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
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  8. #8
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    Originally posted by crossy
    hope this works

    it seems to be just touching....or the mud only is touching.
    if you spaced up the gearbox mounts with a couple of washers it may lift the rear of the box enough to clear the crossmember.
    and it should affect the angle on the uni joint too much.

    if you plan on lifting the suspension this may be a different story.

  9. #9
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    Ok, I have excatly the same problem with my ex military series 3 LWB. the cause in my case?

    well mine has a holden conversion, however the adaptor engine mount arms holds the front of the engine entireley too high.

    result, the engine, gearbox and transfer case all tilt uphill at the front, meaning that the driveshaft is lower, and rubs unless it is loaded up. i'm trying to find replacement arms at the moment.

    If that isn't the case, I suspet that you either have too tall engine mount rubbers at the front, or collapsed ones on the gearbox / transfer case.
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  10. #10
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    Originally posted by Phoenix
    Ok, I have excatly the same problem with my ex military series 3 LWB. the cause in my case?

    well mine has a holden conversion, however the adaptor engine mount arms holds the front of the engine entireley too high.

    result, the engine, gearbox and transfer case all tilt uphill at the front, meaning that the driveshaft is lower, and rubs unless it is loaded up. i'm trying to find replacement arms at the moment.

    If that isn't the case, I suspet that you either have too tall engine mount rubbers at the front, or collapsed ones on the gearbox / transfer case.

    sort of what i was getting at....easier and quicker than cutting and welding.
    mainly safer as nothing will be weakened etc.

    simply adjust the angle of the whole lot by using different engine mounts and/or transmission mounts till it doesnt touch. they dont need to be genuine land rover bits as long as they are the correct thickness to correct your problem.


    if you do a supension lift then it will be a problem

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