Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: ZF4HP22 D1 valve block rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    248
    Total Downloaded
    0

    ZF4HP22 D1 valve block rebuild

    A call to ZF Australia got me a parts list/diag and I've ordered replacement springs and main body gasket.

    There's no write-up and apparently no on-line ATSG or ZF manual that describes the landrover valve block similar to the BMW one. There are quite a few differences vs the BMW ZF writeup.

    Mine is gearbox out but this is OK to do with gearbox in as it is filter (3 bolts) then 13 additional bolts to pull the valve block.

    The BMW writeup is here. ZF 4HP22E Valve Body Rebuild

    Pull the filter + 13 bolts as shown in RAVE. One bolt different from the BMW writeup from memory but follow the rave. Then pull the valve block and take it to your clean bench,

    The order you'll probably go in is MV5 (throttle valve), MV1/2, Lower front block (shift connector), Lower rear block, then main (channel plate).

    Use a bolt cardboard layout (i.e., shoebox) to keep track as in the writeup above.

    Mine was in beautiful condition compared with the BMW writeup. Very little clutch powder and no swarf. Did not need to clean the gasket as it came off whole.

    MV5: 5 bolts, not the one nearest to the filter o-ring. No balls/domes, but check throttle orientation.

    MV1/2: BMW no balls/domes, but the landrover has a 0.22" white ball.



    Lower front. One difference vs the BMW writeup - one of the domes is cup down vs bmw cup up.



    Lower rear. Things are getting quite different. Dome orientations are the same, but some variants have a 0.22" check ball in the slot shown. Not supposed to be in mine.



    Main/channel block. Completely different from BMW, but I was getting careful by now and got it apart without disturbing anything. This is the layout.



    So what was broken with mine? It turned out to be the Lower front valve block Valve #2.


    Both springs had broken and decided to do the dance of death. No way I'm getting these apart.



    So happy I found something wrong. The rest looked like it had done 3000 kms, not 300,000 kms!

    Hope this helps!

    Damien
    Last edited by damienb; 27th January 2015 at 01:56 PM. Reason: updated info. confirmed locations of balls.

  2. #2
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bellarine Peninsula, Brackistan
    Posts
    5,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I thought about teaching myself how to rebuild a C9, had the Ford manual on loan.

    Thankfully commonsense intervened and the thing got rebuilt and
    bulletproofed by someone that really knew what they were doing for the grand sum of $850. Still perfect 120 thou later.

    Point is........ personal satisfaction is one thing, getting a pro to do it (maybe in their sleep if you find a good one) can be just as rewarding because it won't be expensive.

    cheers, DL

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The instruction manual from BMW is for the later electronic controlled g/box, usually found behind TD5 in D2, the straight hyd. box is totally different, Regards Frank.








    Quote Originally Posted by damienb View Post
    A call to ZF Australia got me a parts list/diag and I've ordered replacement springs and main body gasket.

    There's no write-up and apparently no on-line ATSG or ZF manual that describes the landrover valve block similar to the BMW one. There are quite a few differences vs the BMW ZF writeup.

    Mine is gearbox out but this is OK to do with gearbox in as it is filter (3 bolts) then 13 additional bolts to pull the valve block.

    The BMW writeup is here. ZF 4HP22E Valve Body Rebuild

    Pull the filter + 13 bolts as shown in RAVE. One bolt different from the BMW writeup from memory but follow the rave. Then pull the valve block and take it to your clean bench,

    The order you'll probably go in is MV5 (throttle valve), MV1/2, Lower front block (shift connector), Lower rear block, then main (channel plate).

    Use a bolt cardboard layout (i.e., shoebox) to keep track as in the writeup above.

    Mine was in beautiful condition compared with the BMW writeup. Very little clutch powder and no swarf. Did not need to clean the gasket as it came off whole.

    MV5: 5 bolts, not the one nearest to the filter o-ring. No balls/domes, but check throttle orientation.

    MV1/2: BMW no balls/domes, but the landrover has a 0.22" white ball.



    Lower front. One difference vs the BMW writeup - one of the domes is cup down vs bmw cup up.



    Lower rear. Things are getting quite different. Dome orientations are the same, but some variants have a 0.22" check ball in the slot shown. Not supposed to be in mine.



    Main/channel block. Completely different from BMW, but I was getting careful by now and got it apart without disturbing anything. This is the layout.



    So what was broken with mine? It turned out to be the Lower front valve block Valve #2.


    Both springs had broken and decided to do the dance of death. No way I'm getting these apart.



    So happy I found something wrong. The rest looked like it had done 3000 kms, not 300,000 kms!

    Hope this helps!

    Damien

  4. #4
    Disckombi Guest
    There is an ATSG manual that covers it (got it on Ebay on a CD) and also a Jaguar manual that covers the 4HP22 & 4HP22E can be found by scouring the net - I used both when overhauling my ZF and would post on here but it doesn't seem to allow PDF's as attachments



    Ian

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    248
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Ian,

    From what I can see (looking at previews on scribd), the ATSG manual CD (at least the one on the ATSG website) does not cover the LR variants. Only BMW, Porsche and a few others.

    The hydraulic LR version is slightly different to all others, and there are a few different versions of it with very minor changes depending on year engine, model etc.

    Mine's all back together, torqued up and on the gearbox now anyway with the only damaged parts being the two springs.

    ZF does sell the main body gasket by the way.

    Damien

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!