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Thread: Welding Gal Tube

  1. #1
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    Welding Gal Tube

    Having spent a fun weekend building some sheepyards I have a question for the more learned welders among us.

    The yards are built from various sizes of 2mm Gal RHS with gal sheepyard mesh welded to them.
    I don't own a MIG so my TIG welder was pressed into service in DC stick mode and I had a couple of very frustrating days where if I wound up the amps to get a decent arc I could only weld about 10 mm before I blew a hole in the tube.

    Most welds were just Fillet welds sticking a rail to a post. I was using 3.2mm general purpose rods and the sweet spot seemed to be at around 105 amps.

    The welder is one of these:WeldSmart 200 Amp Ac/Dc Pulse Tig & Stick Welder Arc | Tig Welders | WeldSmart

    As best I can tell it just does MMA with either AC or DC, it doesnt seem to do high freq start in MMA mode. (the manual isn't very informative) and I haven't used it much as a stick welder.

    I got some better results after I reconditioned the rods in the oven on Saturday night but any tips would be appreciated. Is it worthwhile to go to smaller rods which should generate less heat?

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
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  2. #2
    Ean Austral Guest
    Gday Tote,


    I am not a qualified welder but have done my fair share, 2mm thick using 3.2 rods is a bit overkill. I would have thought 2.5 rods would have been the better option. I recently welded 2 & 3mm gal tube with this size rods.
    I will be interested to see what other more professional welders in the forum have to say.




    Cheers Ean

  3. #3
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    stick welder using cellulose flux rods 2.5mm will do the job pretty dam well in my experience...

    some cheap galv tubing will blow back if it hits a lamination.

    you'll need some of that a2 milk in the other thread to help stop the galvo guts stomach cramps if you don't have something supplying you heaps of fresh air..
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  4. #4
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    Plenty of fresh air- biggest problem was keeping the grass wet enough to prevent a fire. Had the fire pump going a few times during the day.
    Thanks for the tips.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
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    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  5. #5
    BigBlackDog Guest
    High frequency start is a TIG thing only from everything I have read. Does it have an arc force control? Sometimes call Dig function. I haven't used one but cranking that up is meant to help stop sticking in MMA welding. The other MMA function would be hot start possibly? If you have no luck send it to me and I'll find a safe corner in the workshop for it

  6. #6
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    do not listen to any of that ^^^^^^ its rubbish

    you can not weld Galv. so grind it off first SOP stupid if you do not.

    use a 2.5 GP rod not an iron powder rod, that's for nice clean indoor veed fillet welds which you are not doing. ferrocraft cigweld are all rubbish.

    get some of these

    Weldcorp 2.5mm Mild Steel Welding Electrodes - 2.5KG Pack I/N 6330042 | Bunnings Warehouse

    Now some basics. i hope you are using a manual helmet and not an auto helmet. that you have two gloves and are holding the hand peace with one hand and the other 1/2 way down the rod until you are 1/3 burnt and then move your hand back.

    if you still can only weld 10mm before dropping the guts out of it. 1 probably your hand is not steady enough IE your weld is to fat, to slow to much heat. but that comes with practice.

    simple answer is just weld 5-6mm then start again at the other end, another 6mm then back to where you finished off before. a bit ruff but better than dropping bird stuff trying to fill holes.

  7. #7
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlackDog View Post
    High frequency start is a TIG thing only from everything I have read. Does it have an arc force control? Sometimes call Dig function. I haven't used one but cranking that up is meant to help stop sticking in MMA welding. The other MMA function would be hot start possibly? If you have no luck send it to me and I'll find a safe corner in the workshop for it
    every thing has a high frequency start now days, if you want to pay for it!

    it is really just a gimmick for those who can not!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85 county View Post
    do not listen to any of that ^^^^^^ its rubbish

    you can not weld Galv. so grind it off first SOP stupid if you do not.

    use a 2.5 GP rod not an iron powder rod, that's for nice clean indoor veed fillet welds which you are not doing. ferrocraft cigweld are all rubbish.

    get some of these

    Weldcorp 2.5mm Mild Steel Welding Electrodes - 2.5KG Pack I/N 6330042 | Bunnings Warehouse

    Now some basics. i hope you are using a manual helmet and not an auto helmet. that you have two gloves and are holding the hand peace with one hand and the other 1/2 way down the rod until you are 1/3 burnt and then move your hand back.

    if you still can only weld 10mm before dropping the guts out of it. 1 probably your hand is not steady enough IE your weld is to fat, to slow to much heat. but that comes with practice.

    simple answer is just weld 5-6mm then start again at the other end, another 6mm then back to where you finished off before. a bit ruff but better than dropping bird stuff trying to fill holes.
    Yep,
    Doing most of that stuff. Auto Miller helmet though, yep to the gloves and the control of the electrode with the spare hand and welding in short lengths was how I was getting it done, I think my major problem was probably the 3.2m rods.

    Thanks for the suggestions,

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85 county View Post
    do not listen to any of that ^^^^^^ its rubbish

    you can not weld Galv.
    wonder what i was doing for all them years... silly me

    the cellulose rods burn hotter than your std rod and burn thru the glav..
    unless it is millimeters thick.

    did it many times over the years when i was on the tools

    give it a try all knowing one...
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  10. #10
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by incisor View Post
    wonder what i was doing for all them years... silly me

    the cellulose rods burn hotter than your std rod and burn thru the glav..
    unless it is millimeters thick.

    did it many times over the years when i was on the tools

    give it a try all knowing one...
    ok ill argue, iron power rods as you recommended will not burn though squat, ether you have your rods mixed up or you are just wrong.

    also this guy is out side, and is not welding veed fillets. iron power are just way to wet for that. they are not a GP or all position rod.

    and you should never burn though galv, well OK if you do not like life

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