Thread: Transfer case Defender 110 fails twice

Is this true and if so what conditions are needed to cause damage?

As Dave said in that video if one tail shaft is spinning and the other stationary you have 5-10 seconds before the centre diff doesnt like you any more.
I would hazard a guess that in your two scenarios you will likely be doing very little damage (particularly the gravel road) with respect to the slipery paddock it would pay to flick the lever across into lock (dont bother stopping just flick it in and out as needed)

What flavour toyota did you have, any of their farm/work vehicles with manual locking front hubs dont have a centre diff, the front shaft is either disengaged from drive or locked in step with the rear shaft.

The point of locking the centre diff when on low traction surfaces is so you dont end up with one wheel drive! at worst youll have two wheel drive.

s

Yes that's the part that wore out

Yes that's the part that wore out

If you mean the centre differential well then I think Dave Ashcroft also summed it up in the video as operator error as opposed to a faulty component or wearing out?

The obvious solution is to fit an ATB - best mod I have ever made to my landies.
Irrespective of knowing that I dont have ****ty shims and fragile spiders to flog the 130 just plainly drives so much better with the limited slip centre diff.

S

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Is this true and if so what conditions are needed to cause damage?

As Dave said in that video if one tail shaft is spinning and the other stationary you have 5-10 seconds before the centre diff doesnt like you any more.
I would hazard a guess that in your two scenarios you will likely be doing very little damage (particularly the gravel road) with respect to the slipery paddock it would pay to flick the lever across into lock (dont bother stopping just flick it in and out as needed)

What flavour toyota did you have, any of their farm/work vehicles with manual locking front hubs dont have a centre diff, the front shaft is either disengaged from drive or locked in step with the rear shaft.

The point of locking the centre diff when on low traction surfaces is so you dont end up with one wheel drive! at worst youll have two wheel drive.

s

I have a hj45 and a 60 series and my bad I was thinking of engaging 4 wheel drive not locking the diff, my bad, I do though have a locking rear diff on the hj60 though. My point is it must be a bad design to kill the central locking diff just by loosing traction. My friend has an 80 series and it is full time 4 wheel drive and he does all sorts of stuff off road without the central diff locked so I cant understand why the Lany one is so fragile.
I just cant see the point of having permanent 4x4 that will kill the central diff if you get in the slippery stuff.. Like my locking rear diff it normally got turned on when things started to get slippy not before.
I love my Defender, but this seems mad.
Chris

Because in reality they are not truly permanent 4x4, but constant drive that can have drive distributed to all wheels instead of just 2 as with hubs. Most 4x4s are not even remotely true 4wd, they will only in fact be drive to certain wheels depending on loading and wheel spin even with centre diffs or hubs locked and in high or low 4x4. To get a true 4x4 you need to have all axles locked and that in its own creates other issues.
I am a little concerned with the lock the centre statement as soon as you leave the black top. Many good all weather roads can be as hard and flat as black top. I generally lock mine if I think the terrain may require it or I get wheel spin or TC comes on or if the old girl starts to labour.

Originally Posted by cafe latte

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFHCYuPTbfg
Is this true and if so what conditions are needed to cause damage?
I ask as I live on a farm, in the wet just going the 350 meters to my gate you can slip and slide a little, but I never engaged diff lock on my Toyota as you are just not going to get bogged it is just a little slippery. Also driving on the range where I shoot it is a gravel road, if what Ashcrofts say is true I should be engaging diff lock there too, is so what is the point of full time 4x4 if you need to lock the central diff anyway if you go off road?
Chris

Always lock the diff when there is a chance of traction loss.......just do it. That's what Graeme Cooper told me so that's what I do.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by cafe latte

My point is it must be a bad design to kill the central locking diff just by loosing traction.


I just cant see the point of having permanent 4x4 that will kill the central diff if you get in the slippery stuff..

i do half agree with you. it seems like a poor solution. but most people wont encounter severe enough condition to cause the the implosion.

traction control should kick in in stop the spinning and save the diff

but then again, on rocky terrain, the traction, spinning, sudden traction will also kill the gears

What about cattle grids, engage diff lock or not?
Chris