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Thread: Chassis Painting Advice - 1k rust paint v's 2k epoxy

  1. #1
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    Chassis Painting Advice - 1k rust paint v's 2k epoxy

    Hi guys, I'm after your opinions on the best way to paint a chassis (not including hot dip galvanising - pls see the two options below).

    I recently used a ' chassis rust paint' and was very disappointed with the adhesion - whatever contaminant was on the chassis was not removed by the products cleaning agent.

    i'm now stripping off the failed coating, cleaning the chassis with wax grease remover and then I have to re-coat.

    The two options are:

    1. paint on/ spray on chemical rust converter, followed by spray on 2k Epoxy primer + 2k tub liner ( raptor liner) - I consider this would be the best option, as the primer and top coat are 2k, which have a hardener added and will be most resistant to chip etc


    2. re-coat with the 3 part 'chassis rust' product ( cleaner, rust converter, 1k paint) and then top coat with the 2k tub liner. This option is still on the table, as I think the fail was due to contaminant on the chassis, which the wax/ grease remover, will take off.


    If anyone has has bad experiences with brush on 1k rust seal type products - please let me know - I really don't want to do this a third time If the rust seal type products are the weak link I will take them out and 2k prime to metal.

  2. #2
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    I've always just used a good quality enamel spray can - like kill rust or similar - it sticks like **** to a blanket and is easy to touch up if needed in the future, unlike something like raptor.

    On my 101, the factory sprayed bitumen over the whole chassis - 40 years on, it's a real PITA to deal with. Personally I wouldn't use any coating that creates a textured finish on the chassis.

    All the best.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #3
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    I've used the KBS stuff and its been quite hard wearing.
    Chassis Coater Kit with BlackTop

    Its a bugger to apply so I only ever applied the Rust Seal coating and not the Black Top as a final coat. I was doing the whole chassis and it was too much for one sitting - there can only be limited time before applying the next coat or you need to rub it down, but it needs a certain amount of time to cure before the next coat too - only so much you can do in a day and no way was I going to rub it all down again the next day.

  4. #4
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    1. is better though I would just recommend epoxy enamel as top coat. Epoxy will chip but is extremely tough.
    2. is way cheaper but use an etch primer, as if it's properly cleaned, there's no need to convert.

  5. #5
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    Sorry to be a bother but what is "1K and 2K"?

    Cheers Rod😞

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

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    oops

    1,000
    2,000

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nismine01 View Post
    1,000
    2,000
    Still in the dark. Are they brand names or thicknesses of paint or volumes....types of paint??

    Cheers Rod

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Sorry to be a bother but what is "1K and 2K"?

    Cheers Rod😞

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
    1K generally means un-activated paints. Eg: enamel/acrylic laquer with just thinners.

    2K == activated paint. Very toxic, very dangerous to health. The hardeners use are a very strong poison, but the longetivity and stability of the final coating is light years ahead of the old acrylic laquers.

    The best to use would be an epoxy primer (activated). It's to toxic and too hard to work with for something like a chassis (unless you have a booth and a sandblasted chassis as a starting point).

    I'd probably use a brush type rust paint as stated above. I've found even the white night epoxy enamel from bunnings is brilliant... sure finish won't be great, but who cares... it's a chassis no-one sees it!

    seeya,
    shane L.
    Proper cars--
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
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    Modern Junk:
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  9. #9
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    Thanks Shane L. I know what ur on about now. Im painting my chassis with the rust guard stuff from bunnings in satin black. It was painted by the sand blasters but they missed a few bits so ill just paint it again with a brush. Dont want to upset the neighbours with paint overspray. Thanks again for the explanation😆

    Cheers Rod

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Sorry to be a bother but what is "1K and 2K"?

    Cheers Rod😞

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
    I should have explained that more clearly Rod . As explained, 2k have a hardener added, 1k you paint straight from the can.

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