Thread: VDO water temperature gauge - electrical or mechanical?

Yes, mechanical gauges have a capillary that runs from the sensor to the gauge - this cannot be cut or extended - it is what it is, so if you end up going with a mechanical gauge then make sure you know where you're going to mount it and how long the capillary needs to be.

The advantages of a mechanical gauge is that you can just stick it in and go - no wiring needed (except the backlight if you want to see it at night). They read more accurately at the low end of the scale as they have a much larger deflection of the needle.

Electrical gauges will need a wire run from the sender to the gauge, as well as an ignition supply, an earth and again, the backlighting if you want to see it in the dark.

I've got both styles in different vehicles - both VDO - both are very accurate.

I don't really have a preference to be honest - they both do the job very well.

Mechanical gauges either work or they don't. They are not prone to bad electrical connections or senders changing resistance with age. Although you must ensure that you don't kink or crush the capillary.

Aaron

I have been going through the same process recently.

A mechanical gauge capillary is simple and cheap but susceptible to kinking or puncture. The entire sender end (or gauge itself) must be passed through the hole in the bulkhead. The capillary is fixed length so must be coiled if too long or non-optimal route used if too short.

An electronic sender wire is easier to route but has more connections to go wrong.

I'm leaning towards an electronic gauge...

Chris

I went mechanical VDO temp gauge as it means the thing isn't affected by the Defenders notoriously inconsistent earths, the reason the stock one has such a bad rep.

youve nailed it.

I prefer mechanical capillary over the others on principle but VDO electrical for ease of installation/replacement.

Even though it generally takes longer to install the mechanical capillary due to the complexity of running the sensor and capillary I don't charge additional (if Im charging) for the time out of respect for the customers choice.

Mechanical.....get the biggest span on the dial as you can, cannot remember what mine was, maybe 40 degrees at 7/8 o'clock and 120 degrees at 4 o'clock

Mechanical for the above reasons, but as said they are a pain to install in a modern car, need a large hole and the less wiring to rub on the better. electrical are quick and easy, small grommet in firewall for wiring, pretty strait forward wiring, I always run their own earth for reliability. If using a VDO the readings will be on a par with the capillary type, just make sure it is a genuwine VDO though and not an asian knockoff . Have been caught. The said variation in elec v capil. is really minor as there is no way you will wait until its in the red to pull over... right? Going up is going up, be it 2deg out or 10degr. If thats your worry fit an engine guard.
Cheers Scott

"Guages"?...Anyone remember the Smiths guages,...beautiful stuff,...had 'em in a few of my cars in the "old days",..Amps, Oil, Temp, Perf (vac), & in my Austin Lancer, I removed the speedo binnacle & installed matching Smiths speedo & tacho (similar to MGB!).
I do remember the capillary type, I think many used the electronic one because it was easier, the capillary was a bit "bulky".
Pickles.