Printable View
Ordered a used MAF this morning ( Been checked as good with Nanocom) as was thinking there must be a problem with my one, so bought used one to check it out. So will bypass new modulator and disconnect MAF and cross fingers.....thanks for all the help. Will report back
my td5 would run to 4500rpm easily, and with the wick wound up a bit I was getting 20psi boost , no special mods , just open exhaust.
as someone else said changeups at 4200rpm should be the go.
it should pull fairly strongly to 140kmh before falling off.
Fitted the new MAF and car is running best it ever has, loads better. This said, boost only reading up to max 14psi, and was hoping for better, is there anything else I can check ?
It now revs smoothly up to and past 3,000 rpm, changes gear at around 3,200 and back into power band, still no way I can get up to 4,000. Sure it will get closer if I put it in sports mode on the box, but don't think I need to, just wish I could get the boost up higher, as it was running to 15 when I by-passed the modulator and disconnected the MAF. Getting there.....
Ok, so since last post, been trying to work out why the turbo is not boosting past 14 psi, especially with the re-map. So I have realised I most likely did indeed damage the turbo when my dodgy cheapo sensor was ingested into the turbo.
So I increased the boost on the wastegate, and yes the psi increased, up to 17 or 18, but now every time I out my foot down the boost would increase and then fade off, which I guess means the turbo is indeed out of balance and effectively knackered.
Only way I know to be sure will be to replace the turbo unless there is anything else I can check or test to find this out ?
If the turbo is knackered, what is the general opinion on buying a second hand one / re-conditioned / or new ? Feedback greatly appreciated as always.
Back to the original question, have a look at the power & torque curves here
Td5, A Short History - Defender Td5
Both fall off a cliff after 4200 rpm or so.
The most economical is around 2000 rpm.
Regards
Max P
Time for a VNT upgrade :cool:.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingooner
How much difference do the VNT's make ? And I take it I would have to upgrade the intercooler ?Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
Also if I hook up a Nanocom, how much can I learn from it ?
A vnt has a better spread of power , dont have to upgrade the ic but it will increase the benefits.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingooner
Nanocom will tell you if any sensors are bad or if motor is operating correctly.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
Chances of a turbo surviving sensor bits is slim. How much of that is now munching away at pistons.
Id only go 2nd hand if finances were very stretched.
Considered a CHRA? just the turbo core, swap over the housings and away you go. Saves a bit and new moving parts.
Either that or a VNT as Nick recommended. Allisport (and a few others no doubt) do bolt on kits
Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app
Thanks Simon, that is very helpful, I did not know you can replace the CHRA, that sounds like the way to go. When the turbo jammed, I limped it home, and when I took the turbo off, the piece of the sensor fell out, pretty much whole.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmith
So I have just been searching CHRA on the forum, and there are some which say you can replace with a GT2056, which can improve boost a little. That has now got me thinking......cannot sadly afford the VNT so New inners the way to go. Thanks again