Thread: Little or No RPM change when Shifting Gear Defender 110 2012

Mine is a 2015 model and I can shift very quickly with no issues apart from the known slop in the drive line. It sounds like something is amiss to me.
Chris

You should replace the clutch switch(MSK500020) to rule it out cos it's not expensive, it's on the master cylinder, eventually make sure there's not some bad contact somewhere on it's circuit untill you can eyeball it cos it's there exactly for the gear change surge damping.

My take on it is that it is normal as it does that to minimise pollution issues. It keeps the revs up a bit longer to burn any unburnt fuel when you take the foot off. Mine does the same thing and you will get used to it.l would not know that mine does that now.
Lindsay.

Originally Posted by oldyella 76

My take on it is that it is normal as it does that to minimise pollution issues. It keeps the revs up a bit longer to burn any unburnt fuel when you take the foot off. Mine does the same thing and you will get used to it.l would not know that mine does that now.
Lindsay.

Then why does it not happen on the 2015 model?
Chris

It does.

Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

It does.

Not in mine, actually I try to feather the gas to prevent the clunk in the drive line on changes.
Chris

Thanks Folks for the above comments so far
I will investigate the clutch switch and ensure connections and plugs are clean see if it makes a difference if not replace the switch.
Surely what I am experiencing is not normal? I asked a mate that has a 2015 110 Defer and he doesn't experience my issues with shifting. I sometimes get the drive train shunt or clunk but I except it's my driving. :-)

Clutch switch and throttle response
I found these other threads on the Defender2.net

-Probably many of you had already tried to disconnect the clutch switch, as used on td5 engine, and discovered that... nothing happens!
I've done some tests and I've discovered that the clutch switch on Puma engine works the opposite way than td5 switch. This means that it's a normally open switch and its disconnection is completely aimless. The right way to "disconnect" this switch is to shortcut it.
After done this I couldn't believe I was driving the same car! The "acceleration tail" completely disappears and the throttle finally responds as it would!
Maybe this solution might be useful for defender affected by "running on" of throttle too. I hope you will appreciate my experience.

-on a td5 the plug that goes into the top of the clutch m/c controlled the anti shunt, ie it held engine revs when you dipped the clutch to 'aid' smooth changes. in reality if you can drive its bloody annoying. disconnecting it stops this.

-In normal conditions, when the clutch pedal is released, the ECU, to avoid shoks to the transmission, has a very slow response to the stepping off of the gas. If you can drive, this slow response is really aimless and annoying, mainly in off road driving.

-When the clutch pedal is pressed, and this slow response becomes no longer helpful, the ECU cut the gas instantly. That's why many people use to disconnect the clutch switch on td5 engines.