Thread: 300tdi not starting, I've been fiddling !

Pulled off timing cover, locked flywheel in place, cam lined up and now IP timing slot not lined up with hole in pump body. Had set it with pin at 11 o'clock , now pin fits into body 30 degrees anticlockwise (10 o'clock ). Have I mucked up timing when loosened 3 pump gear retaining bolts, if so how do I go back to factory position . Service repair 19.30.07 confuses me .

Justin

Lock crank. Lock injection pump. Looosen 3 bolts on front of ip pulley ( DO NOT LOOSEN/ TOUCH 7/8" MAIN NUT ON FRONT OF PUMP). Set ip pulley midway through its turning arc when bolts are loose and fit belt. Tension belt and tighten ip bolts. Rotate engine after removing pins and check alignment again. Because you positioned ip pulley midway through its arc you can now minutely alter the pump alignment to check that pin slides freely in. It is critical that the cam sprocket is lined up with the notch and pointer. Use a mirror and a straight edge to check.

Jc

Guilty as charged, too much sun yesterday & misunderstood manual, moved 7/8 nut on pump ( that was when I rotated 30 degrees anticlockwise to get the drill bit to engage ) as well as 3 sprocket retaining bolts (10mm head). now I'm chasing correct pump position rather than correct pulley position I suspect. How do I set correct pump position ? Should have asked first. Can't complain though, seems to be an easy engine to work on. How far should the drill bit engage ? 75mm ?, how snug is snug ? Sorry for all these questions, thought I was competent on the spanners,

Justin

The pin goes in about 75mm.
The timing pin can only go in one position.
If you have a look at the pump from the drivers side you will see a raised rectangle section, the timing pin lines up with that.(pretty sure)
With the pin in and the 3 pulley retaining bolts loose, rotate the pump pulley clockwise to the limit of the slotted holes and then install the timing belt.
The pulley will rotate anticlock as the belt is tensioned.
As you tighten the 3 pulley bolts apply a little tension to the big nut on the pump so that the timing pin can move freely in and out.

So did the mut come loose and the actual pump shaft turn in its flange?

Nut didn't come loose, I turned it anticlockwise 30degrees until the pin fitted ( or so I thought ). It may well be in the right position now but as it won't fire I'm still blaming moving it as the cause. Although as has been said there is only one position where the pin lines up. As for not starting, I've got compression & fuel, there ain't much else ??
Could nut be tight but shaft is slipping after being damaged when belt broke, or something in the pump seized and caused the belt to break ?

Justin

The nut is very tight and the shaft is tapered ( but no keyway etc hence my comment about don't touch) unusual for it to turn unless considerable force is applied. So if you didn't undo it i would be surprised it is the problem. If it has good compression and turns over ok without any hitting valve noises i would have to suspect the pump for a momentary sieze. Bit hard to diagnose over the net though 😕

Jc