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I have the GFB G-Force.
Nice little device. I use it on a 300TDi tho, not a TD5.
Dunno how well it'd work on a TD5.
Only problem with it is that you have to work with duty cycles, not absolute values like we're used too.
That is, you don't set (say) a maximum pressure(eg. 20psi) to work with, but you have to experiment with whatever duty cycles do to the system.
it's a bit of a PITA to get it setup the way you want it to work for 'ya.
Doesn't really spool up all that much quicker than a std (for me 300Tdi) turbo.
All it really allows for is you can set up a maximum boost pressure(ie. for me that's about 22psi) for when you need it.
As already said by others earlier, it controls the wastegate, but it does so at 30Hz(30x/sec) so when you set maximum duty cycle, the turbo pressure doesn't pulse up and down madly.
it does help, especially with the Tdi.
I've tweaked my IP a little to get just a tad more fuel through .. just below the point of blowing too much smoke.
Early Jan we went camping, and I fitted a new battery before we headed off. I totally forgot that the G-Force controller has it's memories linked to battery power. disconnect battery, memory loss, and it defaults to standard pressure values(as it says it does).
On the camping trip with a bit of weight in the Tdi, the thing struggled badly, up hills, EGTs skyrocketed .. etc.
Can't remember when, but maybe late Feb, early March, I somehow remembered the G-Force memory loss problem(having disconnected the battery way back).
Went into it's memory banks(I think there are 7 all up), and set it back to my fave memory, and voila! .. boost is back, power is back, and EGTs now way back down(at least 100degrees on average).
Up until I remembered the memory loss aspect of the controller, I started to contemplate new, bigger intercoolers, or clean out the old, etc ... I had visions of pulling the bottom IC hose and striking it rich with the amount of residual oil in there.
I probably have a fair amount of oily residue in the IC and all that, but the point I'm making was that the controller's memory loss, and hence it defaulting back to std parameters, was the issue.
The only human readable value you set on the controller is the maximum boost pressure, I've set mine to 22Psi, so that if the controller allows it to cycle up to this point it can't boost past this point.
And you don't get the dreaded ... boost/no-boost/boost cycling .. every second, as you could with a full manual controller.
I read about the D-Force, and decided to save my $'s and just go with the G-Force model, as I already have an EGT readout.
The only other anomaly that's confused me with the G-Force is the difference in turbo pressure I see between it, and my boost pressure gauge.
Both readings come from the inlet manifold, from the same t-piece, but I see 2psi less pressure from the G-Force as I do with my electronic boost gauge.
One day I'll find a dial type boost pressure gauge and fit it between the two and figure out what's going on.
So at the moment I'm only using any boost pressure readings as a guide, until I can work out what's going on.
But the issue with that tho is that on the GFB I see 22psi(where I set it to max out) and OTOH, on my 1Gauge boost gauge I see 24Psi recorded.
I'm hoping that the 1Gauge is wrong, but it could easily be the GFB that's not correct .. I just don't know.
Fitting was pretty easy, I tapped into the wastegate hose, cable tied the tiny controller valve to the inner wing, some wires into the cabin, along with the vacuum hose. I reckon maybe 2 hours work all up.
The other thing to note is the size of the head unit. I have it set on the drop down cubby on the drivers side, just in front of my left knee, double sided taped there. It drops down with the fuse box-cubby cover. Been there for nearly a year now, and is ideal.
Thing I don't like is the brightness of the display. around town it's ok, as the street lighting over powers it, but on a dark country road where you want as little interior light as possible, it'd be blinding if it were up in the line of sight(hence why I put it down there).
I can't find any way to adjust screen brightness.
Size of the head unit is about the size of your palm. That is, no fingers, no thumb .. just your palm, and that's how big the unit is. Maybe 15mm thick too. Not heavy either, as the double sided tape holding it precariously on the rounded edge of the fuse box cubby lid attests too.
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by Keppmeister
Yes it's dumb but it's fun.
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