Thread: 300TDI timing belt, specific tools?

3/8" or 10mm drill bit for pump timing hole, can buy flywheel positioning tool on ebay, or make one yourself, this tool (if an Auto) fits into bigger bolt holding small tin cover on flywheel housing, if manual fits in threaded hole in bottom of flywheel housing.
A Quality 27mm impact socket for crank snout bolt and a good quality long breaker bar, wait till you remove bolt before buying a front pulley/dampner puller (attaches to centre hub, NOT outer ring), in case pulley slides off easily, with maybe a few wiggles and light prys with a couple of large screwdrivers, you may need a Viscous fan nut spanner, 32 or 36mm, not sure, undo in direction of fan rotation, there are some excellent Tutorials on the Forum, so search and you shall find, good luck, Regards Frank.

I bought all the correct tools from Paddock Spares, except for the crank bolt removal tool, which I bought from E-bay. I already had a 'click' type torque wrench, but also bought the dial type torque wrench to set the tensioner correctly ( PS, your manual may say 15nm is the setting for the tension - but I believe this was later revised down to 11nm by Land rover - don't take my word for this - triple check.)

Links to the tools from paddocks:

PM029 | 12pc Timing Kit - 2.5D, 2.5TD, 200TDI, 300TDI (usually 58.00GBP) - Paddock Spares

Viscous Fan Spanner Double 32Mm/36M - Paddock Spares

1/2” Dr. Torque Wrench - Paddock Spares

You might also find the videos by 'land rover toolbox' on youtube to be very helpful - he does a tutorial on hte 300tdi timing belt that you can buy on youtube. I found it well worth the small investment.

Things I found to make the job easier:

24" long ratchet breaker bar. The ratchety action makes life easier for when you want to turn the engine by a degree or two AND a few times to make sure things are lined up.
Mine cost about $60 from a tool/hardware store in Bayswater.
1 1/4" socket also should do the front crank bolt too, that's the same as the wheel nuts.
(effectively, the breaker bar then doubles as a much easier way to undo over tight wheel nuts!! )

Definitely the dial gauge torque wrench too(for the tensioner bolt). While it's not easy to see as you tighten it up it's also not too hard(I didn't remove my radiator out of my D1 .. don't know how much room you have in your Defender tho).
You also need at least a shortish(4-6") extension for the tensioner bolt.

Make sure you have something to mark all alignment marks. There's a few. White is OK, yellow is better tho(easier to see). Don't make them too thick tho, just a nice fine line is all you need. I used some touch up paint.

I bought myself a puller tool for the harmonic balancer and crank sprocket.
My crank sprocket wouldn't budge at all using a large bent lever, and I didn't want to place too much pressure on any of the alloy (inner)timing housing areas.
I got the crank/wheel/pulley remover tool mainly for the harmonic balancer, as again I didn't want to get stuck with a balancer that needed too much force to remove.
Wasn't expecting to need to use it on the crank sprocket tho!
IIRC, I think I needed two M5 bolts about 70-80mm long to attach to the crank sprocket.
You can check this yourself on your timing kit(as long as you also have a new crank sprocket with it. It's the one with the raised lips to help guide the belt and keep it running in line.
The front face will have two threads. that's the size of the bolt .. and like I said about 80mm or so should allow you enough length a puller tool to reach it. Hopefully yours will slide off easier.
Note tho that the new crank sprocket slid on(and off) very easily tho without requiring me to clean the crank shaft at all.

You can buy IP timing locking pin, and a crank locking bolt off ebay for a reasonable price. I got a set for about $10-20(ish) .. can't remember got it a very long time back when I first started to think about doing the timing belt myself.
My IP and crank locking tools come in a small plastic container about the size of something you'd find eyedrops or nasal spray in(ie. easy to misplace after many months! ).
Company that makes it appears to be called Bergen, and the item number listed on it is 3188.
I never tried a drill bit to see what fits and what doesn't, but I've measured my Bergen IP timing pin tool diameter and it's 9.4mm, with barely a bee's willie of slack once in place.

I'd recommend to also look at making or finding a crank/harmonic holding tool too.
I made mine up with just a piece of flat bar cut with an angle, welded(way too quickly and badly!) to that I could use a couple of bolts to hold the crank while I torqued up the crank bolt.
Due to my rushed and bad(speedy) welding job, it broke immediately after I used it.
I'm going to replace my harmonic balancer one day soon(mines looking old, but still usable) and I'll use that as the template to make up a less fragile crank holding tool.
As you have a manual, I suppose you could have an assistant hold on the brakes while you torque up the harmonic/crank bolt .. or use a length of something on the brake pedal(to the seat?)

Other 'tools' of importance(at some point).
Some rags, some degreaser, plenty of bandaids, and some half decent clothes washing powder(what I use for hand cleaner to remove diesel stains .. I've found that OMO[in a gold box] is the least stingy, and still cleans up 99% of that annoying crud!)

Cheers guys, really appreciate the help. So I found the locking pin set: ENGINE LOCKING PINS for TIMING BELT LAND ROVER 200/300 Tdi | eBay

And also this set: Land Rover Parts - TOOL KIT - TIMING BELT FITTING & INJECTOR PUMP REMOVE/RE-FIT (200/300TDI) 12 PIECE (SEE PIC) but at $220 I may as well just pay someone to do it for me (Ive used Les Richmond for jobs in the past and have always been happy with their service).

I'm also not sure what to do about a crank holding tool. I don't have the facilities to fabricate something myself. Do they sell them specifically for the 300tdi or could I just get something generic and make it work?

All you need is the small two piece kit(that's what I got) about the same price too.
It'll come in that small plastic container I explained about earlier in my reply too.

I don't know of anything generic, but yes you can buy them too.
They look like a very large spanner with a large round socket looking end(that attaches to the harmonic balancer bolt threads).

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I don't think you need one tho, but if you did have one it could make life easier for the process.

The two difficult parts with the crank bolt are undoing(easier, as you can use the starter to remove it), and doing it back up to torque(can't remember exactly but something like 80Nm sounds like what it needed .. PLUS another 90° of turn).
This is where the crank holding tool is required for an auto. At those torque figures the engine turns over and the bolt can't be torqued up, and tightened that further 90°.
With a manual tho, you'd lock it into 4WD, apply handbrake and if you're on your own with no assistance, block of wood between seat and brake(applied really hard).

Select a gear, engine now locked to gearbox, which is locked to transfer case, which is locked to handbrake, which is locked to wheels which are also locked by brakes applied via helper to length of timber ... so your wheels are effectively your crank holding tools.
If you have a slippey clutch, it may change everything in the above equation tho!

ps. if you're close enough in Melbourne and the timing could be lined up, I could lend you the breaker bar, dial torque wrench and wheel puller tool. I'm in Coburg.
If you're anywhere near the eastern suburbs, that tool/hardware shop in Bayswater has reasonable prices on some of those tools.

ps. did you get a new harmonic balancer/crank bolt too? Always best to replace with new. They cost about $20ish. And you'll need some non permanent loctite for it too.

Thanks mate, I might actually take you up on that. I'm in Brunswick so not too far at all. This is the kit i got
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1494132571099

Originally Posted by AK83

All you need is the small two piece kit(that's what I got) about the same price too.
It'll come in that small plastic container I explained about earlier in my reply too.

I don't know of anything generic, but yes you can buy them too.
They look like a very large spanner with a large round socket looking end(that attaches to the harmonic balancer bolt threads).

IMAGES

I don't think you need one tho, but if you did have one it could make life easier for the process.

The two difficult parts with the crank bolt are undoing(easier, as you can use the starter to remove it), and doing it back up to torque(can't remember exactly but something like 80Nm sounds like what it needed .. PLUS another 90° of turn).
This is where the crank holding tool is required for an auto. At those torque figures the engine turns over and the bolt can't be torqued up, and tightened that further 90°.
With a manual tho, you'd lock it into 4WD, apply handbrake and if you're on your own with no assistance, block of wood between seat and brake(applied really hard).

Select a gear, engine now locked to gearbox, which is locked to transfer case, which is locked to handbrake, which is locked to wheels which are also locked by brakes applied via helper to length of timber ... so your wheels are effectively your crank holding tools.
If you have a slippey clutch, it may change everything in the above equation tho!

ps. if you're close enough in Melbourne and the timing could be lined up, I could lend you the breaker bar, dial torque wrench and wheel puller tool. I'm in Coburg.
If you're anywhere near the eastern suburbs, that tool/hardware shop in Bayswater has reasonable prices on some of those tools.

ps. did you get a new harmonic balancer/crank bolt too? Always best to replace with new. They cost about $20ish. And you'll need some non permanent loctite for it too.

Originally Posted by Landi

Thanks mate, I might actually take you up on that. I'm in Brunswick so not too far at all....

yeah, too easy! Just let me know when.

For the bolt, there's a bloke in North Melbourne that does jag rover spare parts, they had one in stock on the day I realised(of course the actual day!) I should have got one.
I remember about $20-ish. He had it in stock.