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Thread: Running-in a Rebuilt V8

  1. #1
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    Running-in a Rebuilt V8

    Good evening,
    I have just rebuilt a 3.5L V8 for my 1984 110 (pretty stock – new 9.35:1 pistons, 20 thou oversize bore, chromoly rings, early range rover cam).
    I was after opinions on how I should run the motor in. Running the cam in seems pretty straight forward - 2000 rpm for 15 – 20 min. What is confusing me however is how to run the motor in after this – there is a lot of conflicting advise out there! The engine machinist simply said don’t labour it and don’t over rev it, and change the oil after 600 km. I have read many other comments from Land Rover experts who say find a hilly area, choose a higher gear than normal and load up the motor (without over revving it), then use plenty of engine braking down the hills. Can anybody shed any light on the most suitable method?
    Also, it has been recommended that I should run the motor in on petrol. I was wondering at what mileage can I start to run it on LPG?
    Many thanks,
    Edward

  2. #2
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    I ran my Tdi in by flogging it,never did any of that running in crap,same for the TDCi,it was hitting the speed limiter within an hour of me buying it. Pat

  3. #3
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    The engine machinist simply said don’t labour it and don’t over rev it, and change the oil after 600 km.
    I would go along with that, maybe 1,000 Kms. The same for the LPG.

  4. #4
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    Floor the f...k out of it! You want it to bed in.
    When i used to drag race i didnt baby any motor. Straight from the engine builder, onto the dyno and then 1/4 mile after 1/4 mile.

  5. #5
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    Go with the machinists advice. I've built race motors, too, and run them hard straight away, but I wouldn't do that with a normal engine. Don't labour it or over-rev it, watch the temp & oil pressure, should be good for many years.
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  6. #6
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    Most important in a Rover V8 is to run in the cam as per instructions

  7. #7
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    So everyones answer is totally conflicting lol.
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

  8. #8
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    I wouldn't be using synthetic oil to run it in, regardless of anything.

    There needs to be a bit of friction so everything can bed in.

    DL

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    So everyones answer is totally conflicting lol.
    It is what they all want to believe
    I dont believe in constantly labouring and new engine for a run in period or thrashing it but a even amount of both is the trick
    Me i have a conflicting one and in short for bedding in which is not running in is piston`s and rings need to be thrashed in and bearings need to be eased in So it is a fine line between thrashing it or not
    I will do it my way and i have done a few engines in my time and this is my opinion.
    What some people dont understand with a brand new car is all the bedding in is done before they get it

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Love My Landy! View Post
    Good evening,
    I have just rebuilt a 3.5L V8 for my 1984 110 (pretty stock – new 9.35:1 pistons, 20 thou oversize bore, chromoly rings, early range rover cam).
    I was after opinions on how I should run the motor in. Running the cam in seems pretty straight forward - 2000 rpm for 15 – 20 min. What is confusing me however is how to run the motor in after this – there is a lot of conflicting advise out there! The engine machinist simply said don’t labour it and don’t over rev it, and change the oil after 600 km. I have read many other comments from Land Rover experts who say find a hilly area, choose a higher gear than normal and load up the motor (without over revving it), then use plenty of engine braking down the hills. Can anybody shed any light on the most suitable method?
    Also, it has been recommended that I should run the motor in on petrol. I was wondering at what mileage can I start to run it on LPG?
    Many thanks,
    Edward
    I would suggest .

    Make sure it is going to start straight away ( not rotate on the starter long ) and that it will run for 20 min without stopping . It will rattle for a bit but if correct not for long . Fill with water the night before and it should bleed itself make sure the LPG water is also bled . Have someone with you . I wouldn`t put coolant in untill the first oil at 600 .

    I would drive it on the temp gauge and vary not constant load , be gentle be harsh . I don`t think it matters a lot as long as it`s not constant cruise as bits are being worn off there will be more heat , there is no point getting too far over normal temp .

    Run it on petrol , lpg is too clean it`s one of the times the wear caused by using petrol is useful .

    When you notice your economy and maybe temperature for a given has altered for the better is the time for lpg . This change is telling that things have mated .

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