I can vouch for the P38 cooler in series with the standard intank item. I did that a while ago and it works a treat, even with 'spirited' driving, deserts/sand and big motor... I have a 4HP24 with the biggest TC which helps. The 4HP22 with medium TC ran a bit warmer (more slip) but it still held it.
With additional coolers there are a couple of things (apart from heat transfer).  1. Restriction,  and 2. Strength. The factory one is designed for both. It's also the reason I won't fit an aftermarket radiator with unknown coolers in the tanks as they are often restrictive and designed for lesser requirements. The 4HP likes a lot of flow through the circuit (hence the bigger lines). I would not downsize to 3/8" and equally I would generally not run a 3/4" core. Use a 1-1/2" core stacked-plate or stay with factory items...
Quick check... blow hard through the cooler you want to use. If you can't exhale pretty much as fast and easily as without it being there then avoid it... any significant backpressure means restriction when pumping oil at good rates.
I like the idea of the thermostat and may do that myself one day.  Open road cold day the trans runs a bit cooler than it should. 90deg is fairly optimal. 10 deg either side of that is a great zone to be in.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID 
			
			
		 
	
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