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Thread: Propshaft Nuts

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    You are a man of means Rick 130.
    At $12 EACH on ebay that is about $100 for each shaft.

    Regards PhilipA
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    wow,, thats how many small dark coffees exactly Rick? Propshaft Nuts2:
    The 3/8 ones aren't anywhere near that exxy if you know where to shop Propshaft Nuts
    The 12mm ones are about that though, hence why I've used cone nuts on the donut.

    In a previous life I was paid in bags of aircraft hardware at times, that was handy. Propshaft Nuts

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    cone nuts anyone?
    Yep, used them before for the propshaft nuts.

    Not a fan of nylocs for the most part, seen way to many come adrift where they prob should not have. I loctite the propshaft nuts if using them.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Just do not get longer ones than standard as you will not be able to get a ring spanner on and off.
    I recall I was offered those shorter ones and longer ones and reluctantly took the shorter ones but that was the correct decision.
    BTW the correct tool makes this job so much easier as you can use a rattle gun

    Regards PhilipA
    Thanks PhilipA , I have the special tool, seems a worthwhile investment.

    The genuine bolt is 1 1/8 " , which isn't easy to get. Readily available sizes are 1" and 1 1/4 " . So I assume you got the 1" size bolt.
    Did you use the thin nyloc nut or the standard nyloc nut on the 1" bolt ?

  4. #24
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    The genuine bolt is 1 1/8 " , which isn't easy to get.
    I usually don't change the bolt.
    I was talking about the nuts.
    My nut and bolt shop only had longer or shorter than the genuine nuts. (higher and lower?)
    Regards PhilipA

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    Yep, used them before for the propshaft nuts.

    Not a fan of nylocs for the most part, seen way to many come adrift where they prob should not have. I loctite the propshaft nuts if using them.
    How does the threads on the bolts hold up using cone nuts??

    I find both bolt and nut are single use on 3/4” and larger. We generally blow the nuts off.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    How does the threads on the bolts hold up using cone nuts??

    I find both bolt and nut are single use on 3/4” and larger. We generally blow the nuts off.
    Seems to be ok, but for the cost i usually change both bolts and nuts.

    Have lost a propshaft before, its not nice and i would rather not do another.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  7. #27
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    The diff flange bolts are facing propshafts.
    That how my puma defender is like from factory.

    It makes very hard to replace the bolt but on the other hand if the nuts fail the propshaft will still be retained by the bolts
    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Well on my sals diffs you cannot fit the bolts into the holes if the bolt end is towards the diff.

  8. #28
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    I don't think the proshaft bolts are a sensitive item or overloaded. I've even run Bunnings course thread bolts for quite a while without problem and they were used a lot offroad with big tyres etc and no problems. When something breaks in that area, it tends to be the uni joint flexing apart. It the bolt is the right size and it doesn't come loose it will probably be ok, although I would use Grade 8.8 type bolts and nylocs still.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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