The 3/8 ones aren't anywhere near that exxy if you know where to shop
The 12mm ones are about that though, hence why I've used cone nuts on the donut.
In a previous life I was paid in bags of aircraft hardware at times, that was handy.![]()
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Thanks PhilipA , I have the special tool, seems a worthwhile investment.
The genuine bolt is 1 1/8 " , which isn't easy to get. Readily available sizes are 1" and 1 1/4 " . So I assume you got the 1" size bolt.
Did you use the thin nyloc nut or the standard nyloc nut on the 1" bolt ?
I usually don't change the bolt.The genuine bolt is 1 1/8 " , which isn't easy to get.
I was talking about the nuts.
My nut and bolt shop only had longer or shorter than the genuine nuts. (higher and lower?)
Regards PhilipA
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
I don't think the proshaft bolts are a sensitive item or overloaded. I've even run Bunnings course thread bolts for quite a while without problem and they were used a lot offroad with big tyres etc and no problems. When something breaks in that area, it tends to be the uni joint flexing apart. It the bolt is the right size and it doesn't come loose it will probably be ok, although I would use Grade 8.8 type bolts and nylocs still.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
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