Thread: How do I tell if my steering damper is shagged

It's very easy for me to spend your money so I would recommend you replace the damper as well.

As the damper is there to absorb the transfer of shock from the front wheels through the steering a slack damper will result in wheel wobble being felt at the steering wheel particularly when you are turning on corrugated roads...it sounds to me that the shopping trolley syndrome is as a result of a knackered damper.

Do you get any steering shudder back through the steering wheel bytemark? I had this problem a while back when i bent my first track rod and trashed my steering damper, i replaced the steering damper and the rod but the steering shudder remained, not as bad but still remained. In the end Zook helped me sort it and it turned out to be the swivel hub preloads.

Having said this i am with OI just replace it mine was only $80. How old is the one on the vehicle now? Matt

Tried a new 4-way return to centre damper 3 months ago and it is already shagged (started getting wheel wobble around corners/steering wheel shuddering from side to side). Avoid the 4way brand and go for a Bilstien they are a much better item and not too expensive (less than $200). Daz

ps I drive a Defender not a disco.

I just remembered what mine was, its a Gabrielle branded damper and it was only $80 and has been fine, a bilstein one would proably have been better and if the budget had allowed i proably would have bought one of those. Matt

The easiest way to test your steering damper is easy.
Just unbolt it on one end - easy to access, only 1x bolt'n'nut to undo - no jacking required.
Pull it off then compress and extend by hand. If you feel virtually no resistance nor the sensation of oil traversing valve inlets etc then yay, 'tis truly shagged.
That what happened to me before I replaced mine.
Don't go OEM - I replaced mine with a genine part and yay, 'tis already shagged again...

I'm currently exerting some above average flex on my front end. Not only is the damper not up to the size tyres I'm running but the mounting configuration is not up to the articulation. I can actually see the misalignment between the rod and body as the axle 'crosses' up. I'll let all know what I find... (p38a that is)

Hardy

Thanks all...

Looks like I have a task tomorrow between the rain showers..

Mark

I repleces my factory damper with a bilstein and it was very noticable. Will cost the best part of $200 but a very simple job to do yourself.

dhumphri
Tried a new 4-way return to centre damper 3 months ago and it is already shagged (started getting wheel wobble around corners/steering wheel shuddering from side to side). Avoid the 4way brand and go for a Bilstien they are a much better item and not too expensive (less than $200). Daz

ps I drive a Defender not a disco

so did you take it back for a replacement or just thought it was crap

ive got one on my 90 and had one on my disco. both were over 2'' off the ground and ran large tyres, eg 285 75 R16 on the 90.
ive just come back from a 3500k trip to QLD and back and have no shudder or tracking at all! and when i did in the disco i replaced the radius arm bushes at the diff and chassis ends! problem fixed.

so maybe its not the dampner at all

phil