Thread: 300TDi timing belt again......

Try Peter Davis from Roving Mechanical Services.

I don't have a contact # for him though & the Co name doesn't come up in the White Pages.

I did mine late last year and dont recall any special tools that are 100% necessary. Once i finally got the fan off so i could get the cover off the hardest bit was getting the crank pulley off, once thats off its pretty straight forward.

Mine is manual so finding top dead centre was easy you just lie under the car whilst someone turns the engine over with the crank pulley bolt until a slit in the fly wheel is evident all you need is a bolt with a smaller nipple machined down to fit through wading plug hole and then into the slot in the fly wheel to hold it at TDC, then once you get the cover off there is a hold in one of the timing belt pulleys that you slip a smaller diameter bolt into to further hold it at TDC, then you undo the tensioner, replace the pulley if you have bought the kit then put it all back on and make sure the teeth in the belt all line up. Isnt that hard just takes a bit of stuffing around. Matt

And, in addition to Ace's tips (Who has a very similar Disco to mine):

I did my own belt, and 50k on, all good.
-Lock the injection pump with a 9mm drill ( Or a 11mm drill with 3/8 shank - emery paper it smooth and wrap the sharp edges with tape)
- lock the crank at TDC ( drill a 5mm hole thru the middle of a spare wading plug and insert blunt end of 5mm drill in notch of manual flywheel - auto has a side entrance, but same deal)
-use a big bar to undo crank hub nut, and some sort of wheel puller with M8 bolts to get crank pulley off
- replace woodruff keys, seals and maybe tensioner pulleys ( mine were had it at 240k - I did the upgrade timing belt kit)
- can use ordinary torque wrench to tension belt correctly
- when putting it back together, make sure crank pulley bolt is loctited and torqued correctly - will need big bar to do the 2nd stage of +90 degrees.

If you have a Workshop manual, a 1/2 inch socket set, torque wrench and some sort of steering wheel puller, then it's only as difficult as what you are doing to the rest of the engine.

Cool.

I was worried that the tensioner pulley required the use of the tensioning wrench. Plus all the other locking tools.

How'd you know the correct tension for the pulley?

Originally Posted by up2nogood

Cool.

I was worried that the tensioner pulley required the use of the tensioning wrench. Plus all the other locking tools.

How'd you know the correct tension for the pulley?

According to:

http://www.difflock.com/servicing/30...lt/index.shtml

Page Three


The revised setting is:

However, the quoted torque to be applied to the tensioning bracket was originally quoted as 15NM plus or minus 7 percent which is around twice the margin of error of Dial Indicating Torque Wrenches. However, Land Rover's latest service bulletin amends this tension to a new lower figure of 11NM

Originally Posted by langy

And, in addition to Ace's tips (Who has a very similar Disco to mine):

I did my own belt, and 50k on, all good.
-Lock the injection pump with a 9mm drill ( Or a 11mm drill with 3/8 shank - emery paper it smooth and wrap the sharp edges with tape)
- lock the crank at TDC ( drill a 5mm hole thru the middle of a spare wading plug and insert blunt end of 5mm drill in notch of manual flywheel - auto has a side entrance, but same deal)
-use a big bar to undo crank hub nut, and some sort of wheel puller with M8 bolts to get crank pulley off
- replace woodruff keys, seals and maybe tensioner pulleys ( mine were had it at 240k - I did the upgrade timing belt kit)
- can use ordinary torque wrench to tension belt correctly
- when putting it back together, make sure crank pulley bolt is loctited and torqued correctly - will need big bar to do the 2nd stage of +90 degrees.

If you have a Workshop manual, a 1/2 inch socket set, torque wrench and some sort of steering wheel puller, then it's only as difficult as what you are doing to the rest of the engine.

I didnt do the woodruff key, what is that? Mine hasnt done the km's yours has done so i will do those next time, probably around the 250k mark. Matt

Matt,

Slow down and read the the Difflock link posted above and all will be revealed.

(I am getting old and cranky)

You bloody X-gens

Originally Posted by one_iota

Matt,

Slow down and read the the Difflock link posted above and all will be revealed.

(I am getting old and cranky)

You bloody X-gens

Sorry Mr Iota it appears i have done it again.

You are so wise Mr Iota, all is clear now i can see clearly now the rain has passeth. My woodruff keys were all good.

Matt