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Thread: TD5 Oil Cooler Removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    TD5 Oil Cooler Removal

    OK I give up! How do you separate the oil cooler housing from the TD5 engine block AND prevent coolant/water from draining into the lower oil galleries??!! As far as I can tell it is not possible.
    TD5 Oil Cooler Removed.jpg
    Before attempting to remove the oil cooler, I flushed and drained the coolant system, removed all coolant hoses, removed the power steering pump, coolant pump and auxiliary mounting bracket. Then sucked out as much water as possible through the pump/block port at the front and the oil cooler coolant spigot at the rear using a syringe and flexible tube. Sure enough, when I then removed the oil cooler housing I still saw some water sitting in the lower oil ports of the block....Carp !!

    I have sucked as much water as I could out of the lower oil ports, about 2mls, and I don’t believe there is much left but I have to assume some water, maybe 1-2mls, has gotten in to the oil galleries. To add insult to injury, I had just changed the oil and filters so I could test drive the vehicle after some other work had been completed. Doh!

    So what to do now? Once its back together, do I run with the oil that is in there and then do oil changes with cheaper oil and runs in between until the oil is clear, then change to quality oil and new filters? How many oil changes am I looking at? Surely I am not the first to have this drama but I didn’t see it mentioned in any other threads or in RAVE. Any advice or experience would be appreciated.
    Martin

    The secret to happiness is to truly want what you already have
    Oil leak?...Nah, sophisticated anti corrosion system!


    ‘04 D2a TD5 Manual “Snowy” – My toy
    ‘16.5 D4 TDV6 Auto “No Name” – Wife's toy
    ‘03 Def 90 TD5 – Son's toy
    ‘97 D1 300Tdi – Gone



  2. #2
    Join Date
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    To put some context, it is a 2003 Defender 90 TD5, 195000 kms, 3rd owner with no mechanical history. The original plan was to change out the leaking exhaust manifold and leaking coolant pump. The oil cooler was not causing any problems. However, since the left side of the engine was accessible I thought it would be worth checking the condition of the oil cooler which turned out to be a wise move.
    The metal gasket between housing and engine block was quite corroded and looks like only a matter of time until it would leak.
    TD5 Oil Cooler Gasket Corrosion #1.jpgTD5 Oil Cooler Gasket Corrosion #2.JPGTD5 Oil Cooler Gasket Corrosion #3.JPG


    I also expect the matrix O-rings to be well flat and approaching end of service life at 19 years old. There also appears to be a few very tiny corrosion bumps beginning on the aluminium oil cooler matrix element which is a bit concerning.
    TD5 Oil Cooler Matrix Corrosion #1.JPGTD5 Oil Cooler Matrix Corrosion #2.JPGTD5 Oil Cooler Matrix Corrosion #3.JPG


    There was correct coolant in the system when it came to us but no info on when last changed. I could try to convince myself that by ensuring proper coolant replacement, there should be no further corrosion but prudence dictates replacement of the matrix.
    So has anyone had any experience with the oil cooler matrix replacement kit DA1127?


    Martin

    The secret to happiness is to truly want what you already have
    Oil leak?...Nah, sophisticated anti corrosion system!


    ‘04 D2a TD5 Manual “Snowy” – My toy
    ‘16.5 D4 TDV6 Auto “No Name” – Wife's toy
    ‘03 Def 90 TD5 – Son's toy
    ‘97 D1 300Tdi – Gone



  3. #3
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    MoveLater

    G'day Martin

    Wouldn't worry too much about 1-2 ml of coolant as a good hot run will eventually evaporate it, although if it was much more it is worth draining the oil again, no need for filters if you've just replaced them.
    They do usually get a bit more than that into the oil when the coolers let go even though it's nearly all the other way (oil to coolant).

    There is a block drain conveniently located behind the alternator , but blowing compressed air into the expansion tank with the drain plug removed usually spills enough out of the block so none gets in to the oil galleries until you can plug them.

    I've fitted many of the matrix kits for over 10 years without an issue, just make sure you use the supplied green '0' rings.

    I have never seen the matrix let go at the points in your pics, it's always along the edges .

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    ...I've fitted many of the matrix kits for over 10 years without an issue, just make sure you use the supplied green '0' rings.
    I have never seen the matrix let go at the points in your pics, it's always along the edges...
    Thanks Discorevy. The corrosion bumps are also present on the matrix seams, although small but a definite replace for peace of mind and cheaper than a new set of hoses if it blows later. I did see a previous post of yours that suggested torquing the two oil cooler matrix banjo bolts to 50Nm. Is that still the go?
    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    ...There is a block drain conveniently located behind the alternator , but blowing compressed air into the expansion tank with the drain plug removed usually spills enough out of the block so none gets in to the oil galleries until you can plug them...
    Good to know about the block drain plug under the alternator. Looks to be a 5/8” hex bit socket and torqued to 30Nm according to RAVE and yes a PITA to get to. Can the alternator just be swung out of the way after removing serpentine, alternator top and bottom mounting bolts and releasing vac pump oil drain hose or is it the full Monty (remove)?

    Ta
    Martin

    The secret to happiness is to truly want what you already have
    Oil leak?...Nah, sophisticated anti corrosion system!


    ‘04 D2a TD5 Manual “Snowy” – My toy
    ‘16.5 D4 TDV6 Auto “No Name” – Wife's toy
    ‘03 Def 90 TD5 – Son's toy
    ‘97 D1 300Tdi – Gone



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