Not likely with the engine running
Not much of an auto electrician (on the learning curve though!) so can anyone help with this:
Is there any danger of flattening the battery (single battery) if air compressors are used with the engine running?
Looking at getting a decent compressor and wonder if I need to add this into the equation.
Cheers
Gascoigne
Not likely with the engine running
you should be able to run your compressor long enough off a good battery to reinflate your tyres....
and still have enough juice in the battery to start the engine again.....
the key word being SHOULD......its always wise to leave the engine running.....it can take up to 30 mins to reinflate 4 tyres......
if the engine is running....the alternator will pretty much run the electronics....compressor included.....
hence not drawing too much power(if any at all) from the battery.....
if you are going to be adding accessories....it will be wise to fit a second battery.....
complete with an isolator......if you wish to go down this path then drivesafe is the one you will need to speak to.....
will also save you a lot of dollars.....
Tony 30 minutes??? what you using a bicycle pump?Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
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yeah...a 12v one.....
some compressors are slow........and some tyres are big......put the two together and you have the worst case scenario.....
normally 10ish mins is what it takes with a good compressor.....
i dunno what compressor he is gonna use or what size tyres he is running.....
so i covered my backside by saying "up to 30 mins" .........
i also have a honda powered 4 stroke compressor.....very quick......![]()
Compressors can draw a lot - up to 20 amps. Thats the equivalent of about four headlights on full beam, so will give you some idea.
My compressor can draw up to 46 amps, so I only use it with the engine running.
Maggsie.
just checked the current draw from my bushranger max air 36amps/h, didn't think it would run that highOriginally Posted by maggsie
no real problem running the compressor without the engine running for short amount of time ie if your are airing up after coming of the beach and your compressor ran for say 10min continous, on mine that would be 6amps of current draw, pretty much any battery would handle that and still start the car.
however now that i know the current draw i will keep that in mind when camping with two engles running and the kids want to air up the truck tubes and water rockets
i have three batteries to draw from, umm one good thing about a manual battery isolater i guess
i'm always pumping the kids and there mates bike tyres up along with socer balls, footy's and water rockets etc with out the car running
My one is WAY over 20A.....Originally Posted by waynep
M
Hmmm OK I was going from memory (from the manual that came with my ARB ).... my memory was obviously not serving me wellOriginally Posted by camel_landy
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Also from memory I think the manual said that it is better to use it with the engine running ... but I could be wrong on that too ......![]()
EDIT EDIT
No I was right , specs on the ARB
Flow Rate0.5 cfm @ 100 psi, 1 cfm at open flowPower Requirements 12 volt Maximum current 20 ampsAir discharge port size 6 mmIntegral pressure Hi and Low cut out switch, 0.5 l receiverType Oil free operationDimensions in case150 x 170 x 370 mmWeight 5 kg
Whew, senility not setting in after all !!
But obviously some of the higher flow ones draw a much larger current - our Club has a Twin Tongue - I'd hate to think what that draws then![]()
Last edited by waynep; 1st August 2006 at 04:25 PM.
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