Reply With QuoteRecord a nanocom log every time you drive, and if you catch it misbehaving on one drive, post that log here.
Master
Here is one for the Td5 gurus:
I have an issue where the 15P Td5 engine in my 2005 Defender intermittently cuts out for less than half a second and then works fine for the next hour or day.
This can happen on acceleration or just when driving at a constant speed. Sometimes this is very minute and other times it is more noticeable.
It doesn’t get worse when driving on dirt roads.
I changed the fuel filter to check the fuel and there was no water or other contamination in the diesel.
The engine has about 300000km on it and the gearbox was changed recently. However, I think the problem started before that.
I also checked all relays and fuses as well as their sockets for signs of heat damage and everything looked fine in that department.
The next thing, I checked, was the fuel pump. I measured the voltage on the fuse for the fuel pump and it showed 36mV with the engine running which makes me think that the pump is fine.
I also replaced the fuel pump relay just to be on the safe side.
I checked the red ECU plug for oil and it was fine.
I then changed the injector harness with a sealed Pace one (was going to do that anyway).
I also changed the crank position sensor and installed the Pace CPS overlay cable which goes from the cps directly into the red ECU plug, bypassing the LR engine loom altogether.
After a test drive today, I still have the issue and I am at a loss what the root cause could be. Also, the Nanocom shows not a single engine fault code whatsoever.
I’m starting to think that this is an electrical issue with engine loom, but I’m keen to hear other people’s opinion.
ChatterBox
SupporterRecord a nanocom log every time you drive, and if you catch it misbehaving on one drive, post that log here.
Master
Good idea, haven't thought of that.Originally Posted by shack
Master
Here is a Nanocom log. It happened at around the 10 min mark twice.
1.CSV
Master
SubscriberI only mention this because I was caught out to the tune of three lots of injector seals and washers, a fuel pump, an injector loom and much tearing of hair and gnashing of teeth.
Have you replaced the air bleed valve at the fuel filter housing? As far as I know you can’t test it without cutting it open. Easier to replace it. $100 and 10 minutes. After I replaced mine all my stalling and stuttering problems have gone for a few thousand k’s.
Cheers,
Mark F...
Vk3KW
2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
197? Range Rover - gone
1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
Outback Campers Sturt
http://jandmf.com
Master
The air bleed valve is easy to change. It is inside one of the fuel line fittings. Have done it about five years ago, but might replace it just in case.
ChatterBox
SubscriberDoes it ever take longer than normal to start ?( about 1 second )
LordRover
SubscriberHaven't heard of that one. You got a link or something?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
No, starts perfectly fine every time.
Master
Td5 crank sensor overlay
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