Reply With QuoteWhile you have the the tanks isolated, use the additive of your choice, in the feed tank, dosed to the full capacity and use that tank until almost empty.
ChatterBox
SubscriberGenerally speaking they do different jobs and target different problems. You don’t need to run empty. After the initial full tank treatments you dose on a per litre added basis.
FTC and Cleanpower are sold together and normally used in conjunction with each other. One is added immediately before refuelling, the other after refuelling. Cost Effective claim they work better when used together. One being a detergent, and the other a solvent. So no concerns here.
Fuel Doctor is also a detergent/solvent and more for if you have had bad fuel in the system, designed to break down fungus and bacterial contamination, and also claims to dissolve gums and carbon. Cost Effective also claim FTC will breakdown any fungus and bacteria.
Fuel Doctors note if you do have a fungus in your fuel, then kerosene/hydrocarbon based cleaners like Nulon will just contribute to the problem and feed the fungus - hence they recommend treating with Fuel Doctor first. Fuel Doctors also claim it will breakdown any residues left from other hydrocarbon based additives. The Cost Effective products would do the same.
So to start, try either the Cost Effective products (Cleanpower and FTC), or Fuel Doctor, and don’t bother with the Nulon Diesel Injector Cleaner. Both Cost Effective and Fuel Doctors make similar claims, and can provide similar good reviews and testimonials from customers.
They do end up being diluted out of the system anyway on each refuel, so if unsuccessful move on to the next one. They will either work, or be harmless.
Super Moderator
While you have the the tanks isolated, use the additive of your choice, in the feed tank, dosed to the full capacity and use that tank until almost empty.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
RoverLord
theres a bunch of timing marks on various gears withing the gear drive train, line em up and pull the pump... however....
so long as you're putting the exact same pump on the same engine you can get away with setting the engine in a position, making alingment marks on gears with a paint pen and then making scribe lines on the pump body and engine mounting area (paint pen will likely be removed when the pump is worked on so dont rely on that..
You should be able to spill time that injector pump and the injection timing should be written on the data plate on both or either of the engine and pump..
If you get lucky the injection pump timing marks will be setup so the pump is correctly timed when the all the timing marks line up. If the injection pump mark doesnt line up when the other marks on the timing gears line up (usually TDC #1 injectiing) it means you have to make sure all your timing is correct and then advance the engine until the timing marks are about to line up but set the crank at the correct Deg BTDC and then mount the pump. If you're in this group theres also usually some kind of holding pin or tool to keep the injector pump in the correct position during fitment.
Good luck.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
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TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
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The MOD Father
Cleanpower bought, will be picked up when passing through Toowoomba..
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'93 V8 Rossi
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'01 V8 D2
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'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
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