Thread: Salisbury Rear Pinion Replace or Adjust?

Have a burrow through some of these, Lionel. Mike knows his onions.
3:54 definitely sounds like a Salisbury ratio.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...zUTAdR9-4uSauf

Originally Posted by Tins

Have a burrow through some of these, Lionel. Mike knows his onions.
3:54 definitely sounds like a Salisbury ratio.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...zUTAdR9-4uSauf

Hello Tins,

Thank you for the links to Mike's stuff. I saw a couple of Mike's links on YouTube then I found this one Salisbury Differential Overhaul Tutorial that sounded closer to my immediate need of further education specific to 110 Salisbury differentials accessed 21/06/24 from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLw-eDbpruI&t=1213s that was posted up on YouTube by Independent Land Rover Specialists. Then my whole district lost power so my viewing pleasure was very rudely interrupted when the internet went down due to no electricity. From the good explanations provided by the Independent Land Rover Specialist I have signed up for yet another newsletter and an another YouTube subscription. The UK Trailer Fitter Workshop bloke has a clip on Salisbury diffs too and their clips are usually good quality stuff as well.

I am placing a temporary moratorium on spending money on Snowy after paying for the chassis repairs. I am really glad that the whole chassis repairs chapter is closed and fully allocated for! I will use the intervening time to develop some knowledge about Salisbury differentials and tracking down different supplier options before lightening the wallet on Snowy again.

Just a thought in the back of my mind - probably a stray Autistical one ... to take the Salisbury diff centre out requires a differential housing spreader tool. The requirement of needing to spread a metal casing in order to get a part out smacks to me of bad design. Remember the Autism bit!

Update: I was searching for the link to the ARB housing case spreader tool when I came across a different site for another make that describes how their tool is used on:

Dana axle models 30 through 70s It's a heavy-duty device using mechanical screw power to spread the housing. It helps prevent the component damage that often results from the use of homemade devices.

I have another project vehicle that has two Dana diffs. Sigh!!!

I suppose the next question to investigate is whether either the ARB and the Dana tool are interchangeable so that just one of the tools can be used on both manufacturers' differentials. That makes it "Sigh" x 2.

Update 2: I just traced an image of the Dana spreader tool and it appears nothing like the ARB tool for the Salisbury differential spreader. Sigh x 3

Photographs pilfered from 1) ARB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QBQY1UW...JKRKMP6Z6HP03D and 2) the Dana Spreader VEVOR VEVOR Differential Housing Spreader for Dana Axles Fits for 30-80 Series | VEVOR AU

Kind regards
Lionel

Your original post has 2 different descriptions in it. You have said that the rear diff doesn't engage, and it also has backlash.

Will it only drive with the centre diff lock engaged?

Is it diff backlash or driveline backlash?

There are a lot of things in a defender driveline that will cause backlash

I would check the splines on the axles to drive members. Remove the rubber cap on the end of the axles and rock the vehicle backward and forward to check for wear. It's usually only adjustment that is required for backlash.

A salisbury diff is not just a Land Rover thing. It's the type of diff it is. Spreading the housing is only for setting the preload on the carrier bearings as they are shim adjusted. Banjo diffs generally use adjusting wheels

Originally Posted by woko

Your original post has 2 different descriptions in it. You have said that the rear diff doesn't engage, and it also has backlash.

Will it only drive with the centre diff lock engaged?

Is it diff backlash or driveline backlash?

There are a lot of things in a defender driveline that will cause backlash

I would check the splines on the axles to drive members. Remove the rubber cap on the end of the axles and rock the vehicle backward and forward to check for wear. It's usually only adjustment that is required for backlash.

A salisbury diff is not just a Land Rover thing. It's the type of diff it is. Spreading the housing is only for setting the preload on the carrier bearings as they are shim adjusted. Banjo diffs generally use adjusting wheels

Hello Woko,

Thank you for your reply, Woko. The differential not engaging is not a constant thing. It is intermittent. However, there is a frequent "clonk" that comes when the clutch is let out and the vehicle goes either forwards or in reverse. This 'clonk' would represent backlash. Both point to things not being in a state of good repair within the back end of the vehicle.

Wot... Snowy has been used and abused!!!!

Needing the chassis to be repaired suggests that the current state of the differential comes as no surprise at all.

Kind regards
Lionel

1. 3.54 is the correct ratio for the 110 salisbury.

2. Salisbury is a licence built Dana, but I am not sure that the spreader is identical.

3. The symptoms do not match a pinion problem, but rather stripped splines on the drive flange or halfaxle (or both) at the hub. Apply the handbrake, jack up one rear wheel and turn the wheel by hand, after removing the hubacp, and check if the halfaxle is turning with the wheel. If it is, drop that wheel and repeat on the pother side and you will probably find the issue there. The RH is more likely to be the issue, as that side is less likely to get oil due to the vehicle mostly being parked on a side slope to the left.

If it's not constant, I would be checking the axle drive flanges. Backlash in a defender is not just the in the rear crown wheel and pinion. Worn axles and drive flanges, worn driveshaft splines, worn centre diff washers can all cause backlash and a clunk in the drive line. This is why I asked if it's rear crown wheel and pinion backlash or driveline backlash
Check the front drive flanges also.

Hello Woko and John,

Paul (Pop058) identified that the rear axles on Snowy are Maxidrives. I am not sure whether this changes the possible causes that you both very kindly described.

I will do those checks that have been suggested next week. This weekend's activities are sanding down one of the bench tops for the kitchen. I am off to get some more paper for the belt sander. The residue left over after chemically stripping the old stain and varnish is just gumming up the belts. I was just going to run the separated boards through my thicknesser. However, I was a bit concerned about reducing the thickness and decided to strip the boards instead. I should have gone with my first idea. I reckon by the time I sand down to the natural timber I would have saved myself a lot of time and effort with just using the thicknesser in the first place. A lesson could be there about following your first instincts!

Off to the big green hardware store, I go.

Kind regards
Lionel

You normally convert the wheel bearings to run in oil when fitting maxi drive axles. But it's not a always. Maxidruve axles do wear also mainly when not ran in oil