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Thread: Installing new transmission

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by vogue
    Hi again, i'm making slow progress with pulling out the old transmission.
    Few more???
    1. When i join the zf to the lt230 do i have to use a gasket or sealer?
    2. And when i join the zf to the engine do i use a gasket or sealer?
    3. When i have the auto off is there any bearings or seals on the motor that i should replace while i'm there?

    Thanks
    1. check manual, 2. no 3. replace the rear main seal, its cheap and easy to get to while your there.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vogue
    Hi again, i'm making slow progress with pulling out the old transmission.
    Few more???
    1. When i join the zf to the lt230 do i have to use a gasket or sealer?
    2. And when i join the zf to the engine do i use a gasket or sealer?
    3. When i have the auto off is there any bearings or seals on the motor that i should replace while i'm there?

    Thanks
    I can't add to Loanrangie'e answers to 2 and 3.

    I doubt there is a gasket between the ZF and LT230. There is none between the LT230 and the LT77 or R380. From memory there is a groove to let oil that leaks past the seals, to escape.

    One thing to watch, if the LT230 is not originally fitted to that transmission, is the alignment dowel pins.

    I can't remember the number of dowel pins (at least 2), but when the t/case is split from the gearbox, there is no guarantee which one the dowels will stay in.

    Ensure that you have a dowel pin in each location and make sure that you don't have a dowel pin in both the LT230 and the ZF at the same location (otherwise you will have a lot more trouble).

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by vogue
    Hi again, i'm making slow progress with pulling out the old transmission.
    Few more???
    1. When i join the zf to the lt230 do i have to use a gasket or sealer?
    2. And when i join the zf to the engine do i use a gasket or sealer?
    3. When i have the auto off is there any bearings or seals on the motor that i should replace while i'm there?

    Thanks
    1: It is worth replacing the transmission output seal and transfer case input seal. Also the transfer case intermediate shaft o rings. There is no gasket on the mounting face, nor any need for sealant.
    2: The bellhousing will bolt straight to the rear of the engine with no gasket or sealer. It is not a requirement to have an air/water/oil proof seam there.
    3: Rear main seal would be nice if it is easy to do.

  4. #14
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    More HELP needed.
    I'm just about ready to drop out the transmission, but i carn't seen to reach the top bolts between the belhousing and the engine. How do i get to them? Does it help if i lower the tranfer case end first, tilting the engine? Will that help me reach? Or do i go in from the top and move the air intake etc out of the way?

    Any ideas???

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by vogue
    More HELP needed.
    I'm just about ready to drop out the transmission, but i carn't seen to reach the top bolts between the belhousing and the engine. How do i get to them? Does it help if i lower the tranfer case end first, tilting the engine? Will that help me reach? Or do i go in from the top and move the air intake etc out of the way?

    Any ideas???
    Remove the engine mounts and lower the engine down forward so you can get your hand at the back of the block.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by vogue
    More HELP needed.
    I'm just about ready to drop out the transmission, but i carn't seen to reach the top bolts between the belhousing and the engine. How do i get to them? Does it help if i lower the tranfer case end first, tilting the engine? Will that help me reach? Or do i go in from the top and move the air intake etc out of the way?

    Any ideas???
    I loosen the nuts on the engine mounts and lower the t/case end down low enough to get a socket with long extension bars over the top of the transmission.

    When I join all of my bars together they extend back behind the t/case and make the job much easier.

  7. #17
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    Thanks for that, i'll give it a go.

    One other ???
    In the manual it says to undo the bolts that hold the torque converter in. Do i need to do that? Why?

    Thanks

  8. #18
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    some info here about checking torque converter is properly seated.


    http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...rt_18.html#pa2

  9. #19
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    Thanks for the link, that is exactly the info i needed

  10. #20
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    Question

    Hi all,
    I've finally finished my conversion
    All went fairly well except that the place that sold me to gear as a complete package kept missing bolts etc, so it took a week longer than planned.

    One more question.
    Is there a trick to setting up the linkage for the lt230. It works ok, but keeps slipping out of high and low doesn't seem very positive. Do i just keep ajusting until i get it???

    Also does the lt 230 normaly make a bit of noise, my viscous used to be silent???

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