Thread: What Locker to do first

Has anyone here had a Tru-Trac Front and Rear?

Mate swears that if you already have an LSD in the rear, a switchable locker in the front makes the best combo.

However Discos don't have LSD in the back so I guess a locker in the back first is going to give the best result.

I agree that a font locker would help out to more "pull" the car up on steep upward scrambles on losse stuff. The rear locker alone sometimes seems not effective to "push" it up and over. ( if you know what I mean )

I thought you might like these as well, there from Rovertracks in the US, the prices are in US dollars
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/axles.html


RoverTracks Heavy Duty Front Axles
RoverTracks axles are made from a proprietary alloy used in a wide spectrum of heavy duty applications including off-road trucks, race cars and dragsters. The front axles are 1.25" in diameter. They feature a 24-spline differential end and a 23-spline CV end.
Note: The front axles will not fit stock Discovery, Defender, or RangeRover Classic CVs. Stock CV joints MUST be upgraded in order to fit the axles.
The axles are only for use with our heavy duty CV upgrade or Genuine Land Rover CV (part # AEU2522) (sometimes referred to as the Defender 110 1-ton CV). Please feel free to call with any questions.
Heavy Duty Front Axle - $400/set
Heavy Duty 110 CV Joint- $175 each
Heavy Duty Front Axle & CV Joint Upgrade Kit - $860/kit

I think there available for the Disco II now as well.

Baz.

Snip

Originally Posted by tempestv8

With a hill descent, you definitely want to turn the front locker OFF... and if you have a rear locker, it's sometimes good to have that turned on on very steep descents.

My experience says otherwise - control is more important. There are very few hills around that a rear locker would make a difference downhill. Pumping the brakes works much better.

A rear locker doesn't act as an anchor. The problem with engaging the rear on a descent is that if its at all off-camber and/or wet, you're forcing a slide. One wheel wants to slip, and the car wants to try & swap ends. And most hills are off-camber to a degree.

I prefer the slip-lurch-grab of a standard setup downhill. Maybe a fraction faster, but the wheels can follow the track, & its easier to keep pointed straight down the hill.

If grip is a problem & you start tobogganing, the rear locker makes it worse. If anyone has been down to Dingo Dell in the wet, you'll know what I mean. Its sideways rally-style driving, albeit at 3 mph. Frightening stuff.

The issue is acknowledged by the detroit locker manufacturer - heres a cut & paste from their FAQs:

Slippery Roads: Vehicles equipped with traction differentials are inherently more sensitive to side slip. Use caution when changing speed on slippery or unstable surfaces; decelerate, but DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKE.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by Tusker

Snip

My experience says otherwise - control is more important. There are very few hills around that a rear locker would make a difference downhill. Pumping the brakes works much better.

A rear locker doesn't act as an anchor. The problem with engaging the rear on a descent is that if its at all off-camber and/or wet, you're forcing a slide. One wheel wants to slip, and the car wants to try & swap ends. And most hills are off-camber to a degree.

I prefer the slip-lurch-grab of a standard setup downhill. Maybe a fraction faster, but the wheels can follow the track, & its easier to keep pointed straight down the hill.

If grip is a problem & you start tobogganing, the rear locker makes it worse. If anyone has been down to Dingo Dell in the wet, you'll know what I mean. Its sideways rally-style driving, albeit at 3 mph. Frightening stuff.

The issue is acknowledged by the detroit locker manufacturer - heres a cut & paste from their FAQs:

Slippery Roads: Vehicles equipped with traction differentials are inherently more sensitive to side slip. Use caution when changing speed on slippery or unstable surfaces; decelerate, but DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKE.

Regards
Max P

Yep i found that no lockers going down slippery hills was best, the hard way , although having ETC and ABS helps heaps.

Baz.

Slippery Roads: Vehicles equipped with traction differentials are inherently more sensitive to side slip. Use caution when changing speed on slippery or unstable surfaces; decelerate, but DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKE.

i used to drive speedway! side ways is my bag baby!

as for the locker, the front LDS true track works as good as a full locker in a traction controll spec vehicle! its bloody great! no problems with turning either. dont even notice its there. if the full detroit is to much for the rear of a 90(being short and pitchy) i'll be selling it and fitting another true track!

cheers phil.

ps the true track is cheaper than the full detroit, both cheaper than ARB too!

i would go the rear first if you plan on climbing mountains the weight transfer is to the rear so a locker on the rear is the go
every diff i have broken (and thats a few) in my old rangies i was going up hills very scary stuff flying backwards

I'd go rear first. Whilst its true that weight tranfer is to the rear going up hills, its generally loss of traction on diagonals that will stop you. If the rear is open an front locked then I'd reckon you may not be much better off due to the lack of weight over the front end.

Secondly - take a hint from 4WD/6WD trucks the traction aids are installed in the rear first. ie just about all new Isuzu/Hinos come with a detroit style locker in the rear from the factory.


Martyn