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Thread: S111 Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kingaroy Qld
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    S111 Help

    Hello,
    after some knowledgable help from a friend who re wired my SWB 2.25 Landy, Iam still amiss with getting it started.I tried an old battery which seemed to kick it over for a second or two, but has died.I pulled out my Disco 2 battery and it was new and it still seemed to get power up, but wouldnt fire up.It churned a couple of times , but still nothing.
    My estimations are and not being a mechanic and only having limited mechanical experience, would it be the alternator?, as it appears the starter motor is clicking over,and the coil,seems ok.

    The motor has excellent compression, all the right lights on the dash come on, but nothing.Its the original lucas alternator and as I have tried to keep the car as original, I would like to use the right components.

    Im busting to get the old girl going as Ive had it for 3 years and have resurected her to nearly road condition apart from paint and trim and a few other minor needs.

    I have referred to restoration manual and work shop book, but I dont really follow thisto well.

    Some help would be gratefully received.
    Regards
    Dave Kemp

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Hi David,

    Forget the alternator - it charges the battery, but has nothing to do with the motor running.

    2 things that need attention:

    1 : Fuel - crank the motor and see that fuel is getting pumped to the carby. You can do this by disconnecting the fuel pipe from the carby and watching it as someone cranks the motor. Point it away from you so you don't cop an eyeful of fuel.

    If fuel is getting to the Carby, then pump the accelerator linkage and make sure fuel is getting through the carby. You could have a stuffed needle and seat or float. If fuel gets into the Carby when you pump the linkage, then that's fine. It'll be enough fuel to start the motor, even if the carby needs work.

    2 : Ignition - Connect a spark plaug to a lead, rest the plug on the motor so that its body can have earth (negative) contacts and have someone crank the motor. Does the spark plug spark? If not check your ignition system (coil - points - condensor - cap - rotor - wiring).

    If it does spark, check your timning. Are the leads in the firing order? The 2.25 rotor spins anticlockwise, have you attached the leads to the rotor in a clockwise direction? Is Lead 1 on the rotor pointing to the direction of no.1 cylinder? Lift the rotor cap, is the rotor pointing to no.1 cylinder when the piston is at the top (remove the spark plug and insert a screw driver to see if the piston is up or down). If the piston is up, is it on the compression stroke? Check the timing mark on your bottom pulley to see that the pointer indicates that its at or about TDC.

    Other things to try:
    • Make sure you have fresh fuel.
    • Make sure the spark plugs are in good order.
    • You can have someone crank the motor while you gently turn the distributor a bit to change the timing, which could make it easier to start.
    • Is the starter motor spinning the engine fast enough?
    I hope this helps, keep us posted on your progress.

    - Michael2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    Im pretty much in aggreance with what mike said but ID also do the following

    1. get a friend to sit in the driver seat and turn the key pump the gass and use the choke... (he also comes in handy for the spark test later)

    with regards to the fuel thing...

    1. pull the fuel line off the carby and assuming you have an original SIII fuel pump use the manual priming lever on the bottom of the pump to get the fuel up... if you get no resistance on the pump turn the engine over a little and try again. if still no joy your pump diaphram or pump is cactus.

    If the pump is cactus for test puproses only get a small can of fuel put it on a rubber mat on the wing and hook up a siphon feed to the carby. remove the air trunk or filter from the top of the carby and have yoru mate stomp on the loud pedal a couple of times, you should see fuel misting out of the carby. If so remove the siphon line put the can a safe distance away replug the original fuel line for the carby then have him floor the loud pedal and hit the starter.

    no joy? time for the spark test... pull plug 1, lead one and the HT lead.

    reassemble plug one onto lead one and attach that direct to the coil, have your friend hold the plug to the top of the rocke rcover bolt and watch the spark while you turn it over when he jumps out from under the hood shaking his hand and turning the air blue-er than a diesel with shot rings on a cold morning you know the spark is OK...

    now to check its getting there at the right time...put your finger over the number one spark hole as your now ex-friend gets the crank handle out or the big shifter onto the crank pully nut till you start to feel pressure build up in the cylinder at this point reassemble the spark leads appropriately.

    now you (or your ex friend if he/she is that gullable),with the ignition on hold the spark plug onto the bolt on the rocker cover as he continues to turn the crank while you keep your finger in the hole. stop turning as soon as the jumping/hand shaking/air bluing occours. Check the timing marks on the crank pully.

    IF you dont have them to ball park it in if it fires after you stop feeling pressure under your finger that was in the plug hole you are too far retarded

    if your still feeling pressure note where the crank is and have him keep turning with your finger in the hole untill it stops trying to blow past.

    you should be looking at maybe 8 degrees max.


    its rough and ready but works if your in the middle of nowhere and forgot the timing light.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Cessnock NSW
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    G'day All, I have to agree with all of the above, but recent experience with an engine not having been run for some time, both the valves in the lift pump (feul pump) were stuck shut, very gently prised them open using a small screwdriver a quick squirt of wd40 and within a minute of re assembly the motor was running, just a thought good luck and cheers for now Dennis

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Close enough to their Shire to smell the dirty Hobbit feet
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    It isn't a 2.25 diesel is it?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    ROFLMAO.

    How stupid are Mike and Me going to look if its a diesel...

    Having spieled on petrol Im not going to commment further till I know what im ment to be fault finding.

    Add another vote for me as Nuff Nuff of the week
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
    Melbourne
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    ofcourse it's a petrol - he said it had a coil

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Close enough to their Shire to smell the dirty Hobbit feet
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    it appears I am head Nuff Nuff for the week again!!!!

    I must be reigning champion

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kingaroy Qld
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    Thanks to all for your kind assistance.I will print out your suggestions and recommendations and follow it to the letter.By the way, Its a 2.25 Petrol,
    I will let you know how I get on.
    May take a little time in between all my other jobs on the property
    Cheers and Thanks
    David Kemp

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Deception Bay
    Posts
    232
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    Earth Leads

    My 2a wouldn't start properly once and it was the engine earth strap. I think it was under the engine mount out of sight. It caused slow cranking sometimes went good other times, would,t start at all.
    They can easily be corroded or broken under there.

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