Convert RR+Disco Wheel Bearings to Oil Lubed?

the RTC3511 seal is the hub seal. If you pull the hub off to do the wheel bearings, it's the one that's between the bearings and the outside world.
If you remove Pt. # 7 on that last drawing the oil will go ta ta's all over the brake discs, that's your RTC3511 seal. ;)
The oil flows from the swivel housing past the small needle roller (bronze bush on earlier versions) along the stub axle and drops down between the end of the spindle and drive flange and down into the wheel bearings.

The OE paper 'star' or flange gasket holds oil fine, but if you'd like to use RTV or Loctite 515, then by all means use it.
Most of us that use oil lubed bearings use Maxi or Jack Mc axles and these do away with the plastic dust caps.

Thanks Rick130. That clears up what was niggling away at me.

Byron, I just went and looked at the hub ends and it appears that I have a rubber dust cap. I couldn't remove it as I was just looking through the hole in the mag wheel but it sure wasn't a solid steal end plate.

I'm going to do this next week so if I remember I'll take plenty of pictures. As even though it is a common and popular modification it isn't particularly well documented here for those of us new to Land Rovering.
I used to use a U.S. website when I had my Rodeo that had heaps of tech articles with step by step photos. I'll try and kick start that here. Although I guess that is what the Projects and Tutorials forum is for.

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Originally Posted by Utemad

Thanks Rick130. That clears up what was niggling away at me.

Byron, I just went and looked at the hub ends and it appears that I have a rubber dust cap. I couldn't remove it as I was just looking through the hole in the mag wheel but it sure wasn't a solid steal end plate.

I'm going to do this next week so if I remember I'll take plenty of pictures. As even though it is a common and popular modification it isn't particularly well documented here for those of us new to Land Rovering.
I used to use a U.S. website when I had my Rodeo that had heaps of tech articles with step by step photos. I'll try and kick start that here. Although I guess that is what the Projects and Tutorials forum is for.

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Speaking of good U.S. websites, have a look at www.rangerovers.net it's chockers with great advice/how-tos/ gear/mods etc;) .......while your over stateside [LOL] check out www.expeditionexchange.com it's a favourite of mine for gear n stuff........;)

Utemad - it is pretty simple -

(1) remove seal #23 to make oil flow from the swivels into the wheel bearings. You may have to remove the bearing first to do this properly.
(2) remove seal #8 if you want to have "one chamber"
(3) Replace seal number 7 with a double-lipped type (RTC3511). Note that there are 2 different seals, and I am not sure what fits what. My 1987 county has the larger diameter of the two - will dig the part number out tonight. Those guys with the RTC3511 box - is there another number - should be 2-3 letters (BRC?) then either 3233C or 3232C???

I'm sure it is pretty simple. I'm just talking about it because I can't physically go and do it til Monday. If I could go and pull it down now and do the job I'm sure it would be easy. Plus it avoids the situation of doing what you think is the job only to have someone say "so did you do xxx while you had it apart?" I hate that :D

As for the seal, I asked the guy for the RTC3511 and he knew what vehicle I had as we talked about tail lights on mine as compared to the Disco next to it. So I assume he would have said something if it did not suit my vehicle. The actual part is a Corteco 15510067 RTC3511G.
The invoice has it as a "OIL SEAL HUB 12mm > 685.

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Originally Posted by Utemad

I'm sure it is pretty simple. I'm just talking about it because I can't physically go and do it til Monday. If I could go and pull it down now and do the job I'm sure it would be easy. Plus it avoids the situation of doing what you think is the job only to have someone say "so did you do xxx while you had it apart?" I hate that :D

As for the seal, I asked the guy for the RTC3511 and he knew what vehicle I had as we talked about tail lights on mine as compared to the Disco next to it. So I assume he would have said something if it did not suit my vehicle. The actual part is a Corteco 15510067 RTC3511G.
The invoice has it as a "OIL SEAL HUB 12mm > 685.

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I wasn't having a go at your mechanical abilities - just trying to explain the steps as simply as possible.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

I wasn't having a go at your mechanical abilities - just trying to explain the steps as simply as possible.

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I never thought you were having a go.........but now you mention it :D.
Just kidding I appreciated the info.

I just love all this Land Rover tech. Way better than what I got to play around with on my Rodeo :)

I did the driver's side this afternoon. Took plenty of photos for the tutorials forum. I'll have to get people in the know to check over the tutorial thing though as I am no mechanic.

I put the RTC3511 in and pulled the stub axle and axle seals out. Well I got most of the stub axle seal out. I took it out in lots of little tiny bits :twisted:

I think the best part of it all is now I know what I need to carry with me to change a CV joint in the bush and how to do it.

The only thing that concerns me is I have the rubber dust cap on the end of the hub. It looks like it might leak. If it does I'll replace it with an older sealed one or a u beaut tougher aftermarket one.

the simple solution to that is to pack the rubber dust cap with extra high pressure grease (its thick like cold tar) that is now only occasionally used on the slew plates of cranes and excavators. That'll hold the oil in, the water out and in all likely hood the pieces of the cap together after they've deteriorated from old age.

just dont get it on your cloths...

Thanks for the grease tip. Even if it doesn't leak oil it is a possible water entry point as you say. Might pay to put the grease in it or replace with a solid cover anyway.