mine is sill mounted and I have the sls on the rear
Definitely chassis mounted...Originally Posted by ATLandy
mine is sill mounted and I have the sls on the rear
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
IMHO I would steer clear of the ARB ones if you are going to "use" the sliders/steps. They are not that strong from the research I have done and although they claim they will take a high lift jack, you have to jack in the appropriate spots etc, i.e. next to the mount points and not in the middle of the slider (not always practical if the middle is the only option).
Mine are mounted to my sill and are super strong. box section steel runs the entire length of the sill and a further piece of box section hugs the outside and also acts as a mount point for the gully fender. This design suits me as there is nothing or no brackets to catch or get hung up on - like the ARB deisgn. I have come down on the sill several times with the full weight of the car and they have held strong. Very easy to remove if needed as well and as they actually sit directly on the sill i.e. in contact with them, the forces are disapated very well and no bending or buckling of brackets can occur.........unless of course we are talking massive forces from that of a crash etc.
Really comes down to how you intend to use your car and the design of the slider, but in my opinion if designed and fabricated correctly, there is no need to mount to the chassis.
Aye, Mick
I have SLS and ARB steps - they dont know what they are talking about the steps come no where near any of the SLS stuff....Originally Posted by gregoire76
As for the ARB steps, I certainly wouldnt want to use them as sliders or even brush against a rut with them, i have moved mine hiting a rut, i am considering modifying mine similar to what landyandy did with his - i think there is a post in the tech section about it - mounted to the chassis as well as the sill with some extra heavy duty flat bar mounted along the sill for sliding.
Mick.
Fair point Mick.
Interesting what others say about the sill-mounted versions as well. I've only had experience of the sill-mount versions on a HiLux (ornamentaly use only!). My mates got a Patrol with Chassis mounted Snake Racing ones and I've seen him ditch the whole rig onto them with no damage at all. I would have thought sill-mounted ones would still damage or deform the bodywork under heavier impacts, but I've no first hand experience so will defer to those who use them if they reckon they work well!
Greg
Good question which I can't answer. Ring Rovacraft in WA and ask would be the best option.Originally Posted by ATLandy
I was looking at Scorpion Racing tree sliders for the Defender. On my D2a I have LR Side steps which have given me a loss of clearence but they, like the ARB of old, ones bolt on to the chassis and are very hard to damage (I had the entire weight of the Disco hung up on the middle of them the other week!). I ended up with the genuine steps because that at the time was all I could get that bolted to the chassis.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
Hi all .
Currently , I have a LR side step as well . Issue I'm having beside loss of clearance is its located below the plastic sill and my younger passenger keep stepping on the plastic sill rather than the step .
ARB step flushes with the plastic sill which I think is a more reasonable design . Maybe modifying the ARB step with an additional mount in the middle to the chasis would get the job done .
Ta
I agree with Mick you had better give Justin a call, For quality and price Rangeneering can not be beaten and the product is a lot stronger than ARB side steps.Originally Posted by MickG
I have sill mounted slider/step. Very strong.
A rolled angle angle is glued and rivetted (1/4" rivets are strong) to the sill. RHS welded to the angle forms the step and adds further strength. The RHS is curved to match the bottom edge of the doors.
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