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Thread: Ignition Amplifier module

  1. #21
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    photos

    I hope these photos can help in some way... taken from my phone..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #22
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    Going by your photos it looks like the module is beside the coil on the inner guard. So is already the remote one.
    Also if you google ERR5210 it is the part number for the remote mounted ignition module.

    Although Microcat says that part number is for the distributor.

  3. #23
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    Thanks UTEMAD. I take it the one next to the dissy is a dummy? what does it do?

  4. #24
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    I assume the one next to the distributor would just be a connection point from the module to the distributor.

    What is the engine in the photos?
    I can see at least two belts in the photos. Looks like one serpentine and one V belt.

  5. #25
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    UTEMAD, it's a 3-belt 3.9.
    I'm gonna run voltage drop tests and fit another fuel pump.
    Where is the crank position sensor or is this the pickup module in the distributor?
    Where can I locate the fuel Injector fuse/relay???

  6. #26
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    If it is a 3 belt 3.9 then someone must have retrofitted that module. I think they came out like that from 1997.

    Is this in a Disco or RRC?

    A Disco has these fuses under the bonnet.
    6 15amp Fuel pump
    7 20amp Fuel system

    The fuel pump relay will be behind the driver's kick trim. The one that clicks just after you switch off the ignition. Not sure about the injection side of things. Probably outputs straight from the ECU?

    There is no crank angle sensor on the 3.9 V8.

  7. #27
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    Just to add some stuff of my own car
    This is an MA VIN Disco distributor and ignition module.







    Garry when you moved the module I assume you just ran two short wires back to the coil and the hand made connector was the three pin plug that goes to the module?
    The plug itself has the same pins as an injector plugs and other sensors as well as the ECU. I have two spare pins so I could just cut the plug off and reuse it.
    Also I note that the two wires going to the module are shielded and they are also stiff as a coathanger. I would think if they were disturbed too much they would just snap. The insulation already has cracks in it. Plus the rubber boot is cracked now that I have disturbed it. As are all the other rubber boots of the same type on the engine.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    Garry when you moved the module I assume you just ran two short wires back to the coil and the hand made connector was the three pin plug that goes to the module?
    The plug itself has the same pins as an injector plugs and other sensors as well as the ECU. I have two spare pins so I could just cut the plug off and reuse it.
    Also I note that the two wires going to the module are shielded and they are also stiff as a coathanger. I would think if they were disturbed too much they would just snap. The insulation already has cracks in it. Plus the rubber boot is cracked now that I have disturbed it. As are all the other rubber boots of the same type on the engine.
    It was quite a while since I did it and I do not have the car - ao cannot remember exactly what I did - but yes I made up a loom and I had no issues at the distributor end. I was able to use all the bits that were already on the car. The problem area was the plug into the module in its new spot. I boought some small electrical connectors and crimped them onto the wires and then put them on the relevant connectors on the module and filled it up with plastibond to make the plug. The original plug had a clip to hold it in place - which was the one I could not buy. The made up plug would not stay in place without a clip and would come off and kill the engine when you hit a bump - to get over this I just used silastic to glue the plug in - silastic was strong enough to hold it in in all conditions but not so strong that I could not pull it off if need be.

    It worked well and I never had a problem afterwards.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #29
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  10. #30
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    I just went down to the auto electrical shop that seems to have everything but charges a fortune for it. Well they don't have twin core shielded cable or 3 pin injection plugs.

    I'm just going to reuse the plug and use non shielded cable. Will only be a short run that isn't intermingled with HT leads anymore.

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