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Thread: The Grey Box of EVIL.. (aka autotransmission)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    1. Why cant I push start a normal auto (no second pump)
    My first car was a morris 1300 4 speed auto (quite advanced for 1970) (the auto that is) and it could be pushed started - well tow started anyway.

    Gazzz
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Kyabram, VIC 3620
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol
    My first car was a morris 1300 4 speed auto (quite advanced for 1970) (the auto that is) and it could be pushed started - well tow started anyway.

    Gazzz
    Did it have the dreaded hydrolastic suspension ???

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    It sure did
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Yack
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    I could have sworn I heard someone lamenting over the uhf on a recent drive that the constant gear changing was becoming a p*ss off? Think it was a bloke named blknight???
    am I mistaken?

  5. #15
    Range Blitzer Guest
    Why is it then, that when I move the selector from Park to Drive or Reverse for that matter I get the dreaded clunk and feel as though I've been kicked up the backside if theres no direct connection from flywheel to turbine until certain revs are reached? Am I on the right wavelength here???

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yass NSW
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    OK so can you tell me what are the plusses and minuses of my auto that seams to have 2500-300rpm stall converter? I have discovered the heaps of power and suck you into the seat launch.
    Guessing it means I can't reverse down steep hils with engine braking?
    I have rock crawlers in the transfer and find I can drive down in first at about 10kmh with the engine doing around 3000rpm.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kyabram, VIC 3620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Range Blitzer
    Why is it then, that when I move the selector from Park to Drive or Reverse for that matter I get the dreaded clunk and feel as though I've been kicked up the backside if theres no direct connection from flywheel to turbine until certain revs are reached? Am I on the right wavelength here???
    What is your idle rpm ?

  8. #18
    Range Blitzer Guest
    Not exactly sure on idle rpm, don't have a tacho. Are you suggesting its too high which would explain what I get when I select? May also explain why I go rocketing down steep hills even in low range 1st nessecitating standing on the brakes all the way. What should my V8 idle at?
    Robert

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kyabram, VIC 3620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Range Blitzer
    Not exactly sure on idle rpm, don't have a tacho. Are you suggesting its too high which would explain what I get when I select? May also explain why I go rocketing down steep hills even in low range 1st nessecitating standing on the brakes all the way. What should my V8 idle at?
    Robert
    Not sure exactly on your model - but I would have thought - at normal running temperature you should be at about 700 - 750 rpm.

    If I am way out I am sure somebody would correct this.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Kyabram, VIC 3620
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    Thinking about it, it could be even lower.

    Good way to check - get it as low as you can before it starts to complain/cough/stutter.

    For the later Classic RR it's 525 +/- 25

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