The answer is no- diff housings are attacted by studs and nuts, not bolts .
Hi all
I just got two QT diff guards, cool eh
The thing is they attach to the top of the diff by bolting a plate to two of the bolts from around the diff.
So........ The question is if I take out the two top most bolts from the housing is oil going to leak?
I don't want a face full of oil or a mess on the garage floor.
ta
Steve
The answer is no- diff housings are attacted by studs and nuts, not bolts .
thanks
Steve
Hi Steve,
Couple of questions:
- Any chance you can take a few photos of the guards before you fit them, and post them up here? I'm thinking of having a go at fabricating some diff-guards and QT look the best I've seen. Also, any dimensions/steel thickness info would be excellent.
- If they were not too expensive then it would obviously be easier just to buy some, so can I ask how much they cost and where you got them from?
Thanks
David
Nah They won't you just undo the bolts on the top two bolts put the plate in place and do the bolts back up again. Easy. will not leak while you are doing it.Originally Posted by downundersteve
Agreed though that QT are the best ones. They will never fall off like others and are easy to take off if you need to. BTW make sure you have the two bolts that go into the bottom of the nose of the diff. They are the same thread as the prop bolts (from memory) as you will need the two of them. Oh and put some lock tight in there as mine came lose (not alot just a bit) on the corrigations on tracks across aus
Here are the ones on the Blue 90
And on my old 90
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95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
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Good Stuff Steve
What did they set you back???
I hope to do a couple of welding jobs over the Xmas Hols,Diff gaurds,front/rear bash plates and a draw setup for the rear.
Andrew
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the diff is held in by nuts on studs..
which is great.... unless your like me...
removing the nuts with an air ratchet driving a deep socket from a mates rover to fit a sump guard. top 2, no problems First one on the bottom pulls the stud out with the nut. Dropping oil, trying to fish it out of the socket, put it back in to stem the flow. Done that started on the second one thinking that I could just unwind the first one and line it all back up without too many problems and.........
The second stud winds out with the nut.......
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
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TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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Keh? they're studs like the one that hold your wheels on, you mean they stripped and starting turning, not actually wind out, cause they can't
in which case Im guessing his has been repaired before and that, given my luck, every bloody little thing that could be modified in such a way as to make the inital repair easy but any subsequent work I might be cajoled into doing messier/ harder/less convenient/more annoying or expletive inducing has already been done...
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Originally Posted by rovercare
no......wheel studs are different......they have a head on them to stop them from pulling through and splines to stop them from spinning......
the studs in the diff just have threads on both ends.......its just that the nut was holding onto the stud tighter than the stud
was holding onto the diff housing........
so the whole thing came out........
to correct it.....you need to refit the stud to the diff housing using the correct grade of loc-tite....(stud lock).....
there is no trick to any of it.......and it happens all the time with studs.....
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