Thread: Defender hub seals.

Sumo,

My crystal balls a bit fuzzy right now....

Pics would help

try using part number RTC3511, it is the only seal I fit now, does everything except series vehicles and disco2/ P38a obviously as these have sealed hubs. It is a double lip seal and has 2 garter springs, whereas all 'fender factory ones don't. Make sure you insert seal main body 4mm at least into hub, or outer seal will rub on stub axle.

JC

When I had to do this job on my Disco I also had to notice that the original seal was factory-fitted the wrong way round. Landrover-style that is. Nevertheless it lasted and worked for several years. So you're not alone anyway.

Originally Posted by justinc

try using part number RTC3511, it is the only seal I fit now, does everything except series vehicles and disco2/ P38a obviously as these have sealed hubs. It is a double lip seal and has 2 garter springs, whereas all 'fender factory ones don't. Make sure you insert seal main body 4mm at least into hub, or outer seal will rub on stub axle.

JC

Nothing like digging up an old thread, is there!

I recently fitted new brake discs, & also converted my front swivels to oil lubrication instead of grease. I used the RTC3511 double lipped seals all round. The front RHS one has started to weep oil, leading to some research.

The RAVE manual, referring to the later FTC4785 standard grease seal, suggested the seal be fitted with the "lip side leading". When re-assembling I fitted the RTC3511 in the same way, but have discovered that there is opinion that the seal should be fitted the other way.

I am asking - which is the correct way:

1. To have the lip/gaiter spring side on the inside next to the back wheel bearing with the flat side towards the stub axle base,

OR

2. Should the flat side of the seal go in 1st to be next to the bearing, with the lip/gaiter springs towards the stub axle base, with the lip edges flush with the hub surface. (see photo - not mine, but off the 'net).

I suspect by following the RAVE instruction for FTC4785 I may have fitted RTC3511 the wrong way, & this may account for the leakage.

The stub axle surface is smooth with no grooving visible,

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Lionel

Hi Lionel,

I have a 110 V8 County with oil fed wheel bearings all round. I install the RTC3511 seals the opposite way around to what you have shown in your photo. I drift the seals in with the lip on the back edge of the drive flange. It is the perfect diameter and drifts the seal in the perfect depth. (I'm not sure if the defender drive flange is different to the early county flange though).

The only oil leak issues I have encountered after using this method is when the stub axle has deep grooves worn into them (my vehicle has 620,000 km on the odometer). You can often drift the seal in at a different depth to locate the lips on some 'fresh' metal, or just bite the bullet and install a new stub axle (or install a speedy sleeve).

All the best with it.

Edward

Your pic is backwards. Turn them around. Mine haven't leaked in 6 years using rtc3511 seals

Originally Posted by Lionel

I am asking - which is the correct way:

As already mentioned, should be the other way round.
The way it's in the picture, any pressure inside the hub will try to lift the lip.
Round the other way and any pressure in the hub will push the lip harder on the stub axle.

You mentioned you've converted to oil lubrication, is the diff breather blocked ? If so this could lead to the axle pressurising and as the hubs connect through......

On my Defender the breather fitting on the axles was zinc passivated steel. Over time it rusted internally and blocked.
As I work in a pneumatics company I swapped the fittings out for nickel plated brass, problem resolved.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

As already mentioned, should be the other way round.
The way it's in the picture, any pressure inside the hub will try to lift the lip.
Round the other way and any pressure in the hub will push the lip harder on the stub axle.

You mentioned you've converted to oil lubrication, is the diff breather blocked ? If so this could lead to the axle pressurising and as the hubs connect through......

On my Defender the breather fitting on the axles was zinc passivated steel. Over time it rusted internally and blocked.
As I work in a pneumatics company I swapped the fittings out for nickel plated brass, problem resolved.


Colin

Thanks for your input.

So what you are saying is that the seal should be inserted into the hub with the lip/gaiter spring leading so that the lip now faces the bearing.

Unless I made a mistake last time, I'm as sure as I can be that this is how it is now - (haven't pulled it to pieces again yet!) yet it is leaking!

Maybe I just have a crook seal, as I am sure the stub axle surface is OK, & I did use a drive member as a drift to get the seal 4mm in below the hub edge.

Breathers are clear, BTW.

Cheers,

Lionel