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Don't bother demanding the original towpoint back - it's no good for snatching. The eyes on the bar can be used for mild recovery work (but ARB will say no to this) but the best solution is to get aftermarket recovery points - have a look at what's around and decide which one you like best. Thicker is better and remember that at some point you will need to snatch at an angle and the recovery points need to be strong enough not to bend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chazb
I have had some 10mm plate steel squares welded onto my ARB bar in line with the chassis and then some rated eyes bolted through this - see pic attached. Very strong and means I have instant access to these points and don't have to dig around under the car if I am boged in mud/sand etc. As mentioned before the airbag sensor is not attached to the bull bar and as the D2 bar holds a winch, I am comfortable snathcnig from it too. As long as all fittings are high tensile etc etc and you snatch appropriately, then this IMO this is acceptable.
I also have a custom rear bar with the same 2 recovery eyes in line with the chassis so front or back I have easy access when recovery is required. Also worth mentioning that when double line, quadrouple line winching, I am far more comfortable using these recovery eyes over the standard ARB bar eyes..........they are really not suitable for some of the loads a recovery may throw up.
Well...
I do use my ARB bar as a recovery point. I think you'll find that ARB deny the point now as recovery points because there were a few idiots using stupid recovery techniques and coming unstuck and then pursuiting legal action.
The ARB bar in my Disco runs a 9000lb (4080kg) Warn winch. The bar will also fit a 12000lb (5440kg) winch as I understand it. The bar will run that through a snatch block and generate forces up to 10880kg at best! This should be a safe working load also, not a load limit. The eye of the recovery point needs to handle 5440kg safely to do this and each mount up to about 7660kg due to offset loading.
A snatch strap has a breaking strain of generally between 8000kg and 10000kg. But! with a big "I'm fat pig stuck in mud" pull you should be using a load equalising hitch between both chassis rails to spread the load on the vehicle so that you don't bend or break it. The snatch strap load comes on quickly, but it is not an impact load and this is an important difference.
Now, further more... in relation to the use of recovery points which are hooks with 2 high tensile bolts that pass through the chassis. These are rated to 4500kg which is less than half of the force that the snatch strap can generate.
http://www.tjm.com.au/Portals/0/Prod...e_towHooks.jpg
These hooks are designed quite specifically to pull on two high tensile bolts to gain maximum strength. If you compare this to the style pictured below, you'll also notice that the design works like a nut cracker lever and will generate twice the force through the centre bolt as it rotates around the end bolt - meaning that the rating if using high tensile bolts will be 1/2 that of the hook assuming that the 2.5mm chassis wall is the weakest point of the recovery point. That probably brings the point back to about 2200kg's. I notice that the point pictured doesn't use high tensile bolts either.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2008/12/39.jpg
So what's better?
Agreed, those look like 12mm coach bolts to me?
I have ARB bar purchased in 2004. I was a little worried about carrying out a snatch recovery.
Whilst the Disco2 was in for service at Graeme Cooper I asked to fit some recovery points to the front.
When I picked up the Disco Ward told me he had been onto ARB Southern and the stated that the eyes in the front fo the bar were for recovery and I do not need any other recovery points fitted.
On the other hand,
Bruce Davis used to do a good set which later down the track I might get fitted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chazb
When I had a TJM bar fitted in 2003, the "fitter" did the same thing (threw away the original tow loop). Was part of a whole heap of errors they made, though they refused to fix them...:mad: You can buy the "factory" one from LR for about $28. (TJM head office did compensate me for this expense in the end).
My intention was always to buy a second one for the other side. Would just require some "modification" to the plate under the bar to get access to it. If fabricating one myself, I would try to replicate the factory unit in that it is a U shape around the chassis rail, allowing double the shear points onto the attaching bolts (ie half the individual shear stresss).
There is a real mix of opinions on this topic!
I think I'll *consider* getting aftermarket recovery points for my trip around Australia, but all things considered (mainly money) I will most likely rely on the eyes on my ARB deluxe bullbar. I still have the original tow point, but wont try refitting it as it sounds like a hassle for something that the bullbar will do as easily - AS LONG AS I am sensible with any snatching.
Thanks as always,
Chazb.
OK... Let me reiterate....
This is NOT a safe recovery point...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...-ii-hook1a.jpg
It is a TOWING POINT only....
I have seen these let go in spectacular fashion...
These are good. When he had them tested, the chassis section ripped apart before the recovery point gave up. Perhaps too good, but they wont come any stronger.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRS
I agree Tombie, and mate had one let go and tear a hole into the snatching vehicle.
Point taken re use of the factory loop for recovery etc. My intention at the time (in 2003) was to get the vehicle how TJM meant it to be. I haven't done much 4WDing since the kids came along :(:( so the need for recovery points to be sorted properly has not been a priority. This will change soon I hope so will give some thought to how to get some decent points on both chassis rails.
BTW Slunnie and/or Tombraider, how do the factory loops usually fail (bend/break the sides, break the wire loop, shear bolts ???)
Thanks