Thread: 4-bolt PAS Box - DIY rebuild???

I did the seals only on my box, was pretty easy considering I had no idea what I was doing. Below are the seals I used.

The input shaft seal is a NAK TC 22 32 6 it is a double lip seal compared to the standard single, $3.30 which I got from a bearing place.

The Pitman seal I got from a Hydraulic place, Hallite in Seven Hills, it is a Hydraulic seal it is Blue (Hythane) $10.65. Code 4502701 Description SI 1250 1750 0250 Type 601 1.1/4"x1.3/4" Hythane U-Ring

G'day cant say i have but wish i could so im just as keen to know as you are so il be waitn to c wats involved

cheers

chris

Originally Posted by stephen

I did the seals only on my box, was pretty easy considering I had no idea what I was doing. Below are the seals I used.

The input shaft seal is a NAK TC 22 32 6 it is a double lip seal compared to the standard single, $3.30 which I got from a bearing place.

The Pitman seal I got from a Hydraulic place, Hallite in Seven Hills, it is a Hydraulic seal it is Blue (Hythane) $10.65. Code 4502701 Description SI 1250 1750 0250 Type 601 1.1/4"x1.3/4" Hythane U-Ring

Great stuff and cheep to how hard was it to get the pitman arm off the box ive done these on cars and have had all sorts of probs getin em off

cheers

chrs

done it, the hardest part is the pressing out of the parts if you need to be kind to it, if your just doing seals its a doddle.

Do work in an immaculatly clean area, Do not ignore the correct preload settings, beg borrow steal or make a dial torque gauge for the assembly stage.Prelube everything with vasaline on assembly while you do the testing.

I find it easier to soak it in degreaser the night before, pressure wash it in the morning, pull it out and let it sit in the sun for a couple of hours while I make a clean space on the workbench to play wih it.

This must be the issue of all time!

Got the manual and am about to do it, but many others here will be far more expert than me.

If you send it out, it costs a zillion$, but a DYI is not too hard apparently, well I'm game enough to try, having read so much here over the past few years....

GQ

Originally Posted by stephen

I did the seals only on my box, was pretty easy considering I had no idea what I was doing. Below are the seals I used.

The input shaft seal is a NAK TC 22 32 6 it is a double lip seal compared to the standard single, $3.30 which I got from a bearing place.

The Pitman seal I got from a Hydraulic place, Hallite in Seven Hills, it is a Hydraulic seal it is Blue (Hythane) $10.65. Code 4502701 Description SI 1250 1750 0250 Type 601 1.1/4"x1.3/4" Hythane U-Ring

Great info Stephen!!!

Steven and Dave (and anyone else...) - how much play did your input shaft have? Any idea on how much is OK?

Are both seals retained with circlips?

beg borrow steal or make a dial torque gauge for the assembly stage.


WTF???? is a
dial torque gauge ive used a spring loaded scale (type you weigh fish with)to set stuff up using a wheel with string to mesure the amount of weght required to turn a shtft but never heard of one of those please explain ?????????????

Originally Posted by lokka

beg borrow steal or make a dial torque gauge for the assembly stage.


WTF???? is a
dial torque gauge ive used a spring loaded scale (type you weigh fish with)to set stuff up using a wheel with string to mesure the amount of weght required to turn a shtft but never heard of one of those please explain ?????????????

I assume he meant a dial gauge - used to measure end-float/run-out on things that rotate.

What you are talking about is a spring balance - to measure torque/preload. I have always used a fishing scale and string as well...