Thread: 4-bolt PAS Box - DIY rebuild???

If the bottom shaft is worn then it will leak again after you 're seal'.
To get the pitman arm off use a proper puller. I bough one of those Supa crap auto pitman arm pullers and it just snapped.
I hire one from a tool shop. ( identical in design to the SCA one, but stronger) and it popped of easily.

Originally Posted by stephen

I did the seals only on my box, was pretty easy considering I had no idea what I was doing. Below are the seals I used.

The input shaft seal is a NAK TC 22 32 6 it is a double lip seal compared to the standard single, $3.30 which I got from a bearing place.

The Pitman seal I got from a Hydraulic place, Hallite in Seven Hills, it is a Hydraulic seal it is Blue (Hythane) $10.65. Code 4502701 Description SI 1250 1750 0250 Type 601 1.1/4"x1.3/4" Hythane U-Ring

When you go to Hallite, ask for Roy Siquera....

Tell him you want the "Mike Hayes" discount (that your a friend of mine).

That should drop the price on the 601 U-ring substantially.

Originally Posted by tombraider

When you go to Hallite, ask for Roy Siquera....

Tell him you want the "Mike Hayes" discount (that your a friend of mine).

That should drop the price on the 601 U-ring substantially.

Is this discount only valid in South OZ?

G'day All, Well I've just joined the ranks of needing PAS rebuild, I had mine up to Modern Motors Dungog this morning thinking it was the seal in the bottom (mind you though it was rebuilt approx 6/7 years ago at a motza cost) only to find out that the housing is cracked and that is where the leak is, this only happens when on full R/L lock it pizzes out, so I'm on the hunt for a 4 bolt box as well cheers Dennis
PS Yes it was.

Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All, Well I've just joined the ranks of needing PAS rebuild, I had mine up to Modern Motors Dungog this morning thinking it was the seal in the bottom (mind you though it was rebuilt approx 6/7 years ago at a motza cost) only to find out that the housing is cracked and that is where the leak is, this only happens when on full R/L lock it pizzes out, so I'm on the hunt for a 4 bolt box as well cheers Dennis
PS Yes it was.

I don't think you need a rebuild - I think you need a new box by the sounds. All four x 4 spares were offereing new boxes for $1200 at the Landrover Expo earlier this year, so they might be worth a call.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I don't think you need a rebuild - I think you need a new box by the sounds. All four x 4 spares were offereing new boxes for $1200 at the Landrover Expo earlier this year, so they might be worth a call.

John

Or but a 2nd hand box with a good case and rebuild it... That is a strange failure...

Originally Posted by rick130

naa, it'd be a dial type tension wrench. Most of us use a deflecting beam type for tensioning bolts, a dial type is more accurate and a squillion $ more expensive.

Ohhhhhh! Just remembered.........I've got one of those.....last seen 5 years ago in my son-in-laws tool box........have to get it back off the borrowing B%$#@%$#d

Originally Posted by rick130

naa, it'd be a dial type tension wrench. Most of us use a deflecting beam type for tensioning bolts, a dial type is more accurate and a squillion $ more expensive.

So one of these???


I assume this is to check force required to rotate the shaft? (really must dig manual out of box to see what is involved). Why can't you just use the spring balance method?