don't forget to use anto-sieze on the reassembly, who ever does your next wheel alignment will loce you for itOriginally Posted by stikman
You wouldn't be the first one to do that!Originally Posted by stikman
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
don't forget to use anto-sieze on the reassembly, who ever does your next wheel alignment will loce you for itOriginally Posted by stikman
I had the same trouble with mine when i bent the first one and replaced it with another standard one (should have done the upgraded one) and my mechanic and I had to heat the end with an oxy and it eventually came undone. Turns out the people who had done W/A's before had used the wrong section of the rod to adjust it.
Only the heavy duty rods have a left hand thread on one end, the OE ones have another section in so that when you turn it one end doesnt do up and the other undo. Matt
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.
Thanks All.
Got one end off on my own steam, had to get some assistance with the second. Now trying to loosten the adjustment section so have that soaking with the Tie Ends off.
Weeds, any particular anti seize? What is the best to use?
i use loctite antisieze, i have a 500g tin with brush in the lid , i have had it for years as you don't need much, watch out though as its like gotcha grease, get the smallest bit on your hands and it seems to get everywhereOriginally Posted by stikman
I think LR used loktite in that area. When I adjusted the wheel alignment on my Disco I had to weld a 30mm length of 6x6 steel in the middle of the link so that I could use 2 spanners to undo. Was still bllody tight, lots of grunting and profanity.
Very similar to what they do with the spigot in the rear diff. flange. All a bit of overkill methinks.
over kill it maybe, but what would you rather, them being a little bit of a nusience to undo...
or having them come apart while your doing warp factor too many passing a road train on a single wide "highway" in the middle of outback NT or QLD somewhere?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
For loosening stuck fasteners, the absolute best product I have come across in nearly fifty years since being apprenticed is Chemsearch "Yield", made in Alexandria, Sydney. Usually stocked by engineers suppliers rather than auto. parts shops. It is expensive and worth every cent. Chemsearch call it "a rust dissolver" but I call it miracle fluid. It appears to be a hydrocarbon solvent base with light oil like WD40 plus the Chemsearch additives. I use Loctite antiseize. For your tie rods you can use either nickel or silver antiseize as there is no problem with elevated temperatures. I no longer keep copper antiseize in case someone uses it on aluminium components.Originally Posted by stikman
URSUSMAJOR
Spaysolvol is fanastic as well, totally penetrates rust.
I use Loctite anti-seize as well, but use it carefully as it can undo parts you want left alone. It undid the towball on my Rover three times, even with a new spring washer. In the end I washed it off and used grease on the thread.
cheers Chazza
Thanks all....again. Really Appreciated.![]()
I got everything off and back on so on the right track now. Got the alignment adjuster moving this morning, another night soaking, some heat, a hammer and some swearing, alls good. When i pull it off for the 4th time i will put some antiseize on the threads. Sooner rather then later![]()
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